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Maintaining Cedar Deck

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Deal Addict
Jun 15, 2006
1451 posts
305 upvotes

Maintaining Cedar Deck

I saw the other thread on pressure treated decks and wanted similar advice on my new cedar deck. It was put in last fall and I left it as is over the winter. Now that it's spring, can anyone give me advice on what I should do to protect and maintain it?

I'm planning on buying a high pressure washer, so I know giving it a good wash is a first step. What do I do next? Do I apply a sealant stain? Or one of these Cabot timber oil stains to give that nice wet look for the cedar? Do I apply both?? In what order do I apply these stains, etc. I want to maintain this deck properly to last many years!

Thanks in advance for any tips you might have!
11 replies
Newbie
Oct 16, 2008
89 posts
enigma54 wrote: I saw the other thread on pressure treated decks and wanted similar advice on my new cedar deck. It was put in last fall and I left it as is over the winter. Now that it's spring, can anyone give me advice on what I should do to protect and maintain it?

I'm planning on buying a high pressure washer, so I know giving it a good wash is a first step. What do I do next? Do I apply a sealant stain? Or one of these Cabot timber oil stains to give that nice wet look for the cedar? Do I apply both?? In what order do I apply these stains, etc. I want to maintain this deck properly to last many years!

Thanks in advance for any tips you might have!
If you still have left over pieces of cedar wood, request some stain samples from the Cabot website or other manufacturers and test them. You may have to pay some shipping charges.

Pour some water on your cedar woods both stained and unstained pieces. The unstained pieces will absorb some while the stained one keeps water from penetrating its coating. You can also decide on the look you want.

Instead of sealant and stain, 2 coats of stain would work better IMO.
Deal Addict
Jun 15, 2006
1451 posts
305 upvotes
thomas101 wrote: If you still have left over pieces of cedar wood, request some stain samples from the Cabot website or other manufacturers and test them. You may have to pay some shipping charges.

Pour some water on your cedar woods both stained and unstained pieces. The unstained pieces will absorb some while the stained one keeps water from penetrating its coating. You can also decide on the look you want.

Instead of sealant and stain, 2 coats of stain would work better IMO.
OK, thanks for your response. I just went on the Cabot website and read through some of their info and I'm still a little confused. For my application, there seems to be a clear product, a translucent product and the Australian timber oil product. Is one better for protecting the wood from moisture or scuffing? I can understand each gives a different look to the wood, but I'm also interested in protecting my deck as well as making it look nice! What are the pros and cons of each?

Also, for the products mentioned, they only recommend 1 coat. They also sell a waterproofing product - do I need this if I go with one of the products above?
Deal Fanatic
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Nov 13, 2005
5897 posts
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GTA
I would get professional advice b4 you use a pressure washer on a deck. I was once told to not use a pressure washer on wood before you stain or paint. The water ends up deap inside the wood and thus will not only ruin the wood but will take forever to dry. However it's okay to use a garden hose to pre-clean the surface b4 you stain it. It's always best to ask the manufacturer b4 you begin!!

sk
Newbie
Oct 16, 2008
89 posts
enigma54 wrote: OK, thanks for your response. I just went on the Cabot website and read through some of their info and I'm still a little confused. For my application, there seems to be a clear product, a translucent product and the Australian timber oil product. Is one better for protecting the wood from moisture or scuffing? I can understand each gives a different look to the wood, but I'm also interested in protecting my deck as well as making it look nice! What are the pros and cons of each?

Also, for the products mentioned, they only recommend 1 coat. They also sell a waterproofing product - do I need this if I go with one of the products above?
I went through that confusion when I started my own deck.

The clear solution gives you that wet and natural look. It will not last long or protect well because it will let UV through rather than reflecting it. So your wood still turning grey under the coating.

The solid stain covers very well but it hides both imperfection and the beauty of wood grains. If I remember correctly, it comes in many shades.

The Cabot Australian Timber Oil is a different product and it stands halfway between the first two by giving your deck better protection than clear coat and nicer look than solid stain . I think it comes in 3 shades but I could only remember two: Mahogany Flames and Honey. On its own, this oil has good waterproofing property.

Applying the stain then the sealant is like shining shoes: you polish first then applying a wax to seal in the shinny polish. I have not used this product because I know that the deck needs to be restained every 1-2 yrs. What is left of the remaining sealant may prevent the fresh oil from penetrating to the wood giving you an uneven and spotty look. You may want to call Cabot and ask them this question before using sealant.

As for 1 or 2 coats, you will not go wrong either way. If you ever finish wooden furniture, you will find that 2 coats or more will give you more even penetration and durable finish. The raw new timber will suck in your 1st coat quickly that is why another coat is recommended, and when you re-apply the oil in 2nd or 3rd yr, 1 coat shoud be enough without sanding.

Cedar is a nice wood, naturally rot resistance than pine and taking oil stain very well. One farmer friend once told me his cedar posts lining the fields were 50 yrs old but they will crack and discolor if not protected.
Sr. Member
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Dec 28, 2008
631 posts
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Rural Ontario
sunnybono wrote: I would get professional advice b4 you use a pressure washer on a deck. I was once told to not use a pressure washer on wood before you stain or paint. The water ends up deap inside the wood and thus will not only ruin the wood but will take forever to dry. However it's okay to use a garden hose to pre-clean the surface b4 you stain it. It's always best to ask the manufacturer b4 you begin!!

sk
+1. Pressure washers raise the grain and the water gets deep inside the wood. You'll have to wait a long time for it to adequately dry prior to being able to stain.
Member
Nov 1, 2005
447 posts
19 upvotes
3 Coats of Cetol initially, and a maintenance coat once every 2 or so years. It'll look mint.
Deal Fanatic
Aug 14, 2008
6858 posts
220 upvotes
Ontario
How long a stain lasts is all in the prep, then choosing your preference of finish to bond to the cedar fibres.
1. Opaque lasts the longest but peeling is the most noticeable as time passes, good for verticals like cedar railings that have no foot traffic. Opaque covers up the grain.
2. Semi-transparent or semi-solid is next, also peels but is less noticeable. Colours the wood, grain shows through.
3. Clear has to be done yearly, protects the wood but the cedar will still grey.

Since there is no existing stain, use Behr Cleaner/Brightener/Conditioner or similar (look for the same ingredients in a generic brand if you can't find Behr). Use a broom to brush the froth into the fibres. Pressure wash it off at a lowest setting at a 45degree angle, one board at a time. Test on scrap cedar, too strong and you'll rip the fibres and you'll have to do heavy sanding for the stain to absorb. Allow several days to dry, if you don't and finish it over damp wood, black mildew spots will develop. Sanding this year is optional since your deck is new. Best is to have 72h no rain before and after the stain but who can predict that, lol.
Cabot decking stain and Cabot solid color are the highest ranking by Consumer Reports, cheapest place to buy is Lowes. Follow the directions on the can or Cabot website.

I chose a semisolid colour resembling my siding and it really makes the deck look like an extension of the house. It is also close to the grey colour of the cedar as the stain peels.
Warning, once you use semi-transparent, semi-solid, or opaque stain, there is no turning back, you will have a terrible time if you want to restore to the original cedar colour (you can't strip and sand every nook and corner). It becomes a ritual every 2-3y, although by 3y it is a peeling mess whichever you use. Sometimes I wish I just used clear in the first place but I don't like how unfinished it looks against our house.
Deal Addict
Jun 15, 2006
1451 posts
305 upvotes
Thanks for the responses! I think I'm leaning towards the clear stain for the wet and natural look even though I realize I'll have to re-apply more frequently.
Sr. Member
Jan 2, 2006
523 posts
28 upvotes
Bradford
enigma54 wrote: Thanks for the responses! I think I'm leaning towards the clear stain for the wet and natural look even though I realize I'll have to re-apply more frequently.
We have had a cedar deck for the past 8 years, if you pressure wash your cedar it will become "furry" then you will need to sand it all down. You should be sanding it lightly then wipe with water.

We have gone thru all the various types of stains on the market and have only used the Cabot Timber Oil. We mixed the Mahogany with the dark brown colour in order to make sure we didn't get that Orange look on the deck and really you only need to apply this every 2 years on the verticals. Every year the colour gets richer and richer. Very nice product to work with, not at all like a Sikkens stain or a HD stain.

This Oil treats the wood really nice. We would not use anything else . If i knew how to attach a picture I would but unfortunately I don't.
Jr. Member
Feb 21, 2007
110 posts
5 upvotes
I have a 7-8 yr old deck. In relatively good condition. Looking to use the Cabot Timber Oil.

Question is:

do I need to sand the deck first (lightly) or simply use a deck wash?
Deal Addict
Nov 12, 2006
3109 posts
2309 upvotes
London
Something you haven't stated is what species of cedar.
Your location isn't specified to deduce it.

White cedar will weather to a nice silver/grey.
Red cedar starts nice, but weathers quite dark.

UV will harm both and protection will benefit both.
However, left unfinished they stand up better than other species.
To retain that red cedar look, you will need a finish.

The purpose of sanding or pressure washing a newly constructed deck is to remove the "mill glaze" from the planing process. It basically opens the pores again.
Pressure washing is OK, but with precautions.
Maintain distance. It is easily damaged.
Allow time to dry. A few days in good drying weather is sufficient.
I've pressure washed white cedar and stained this way.

Penetrating oil stain is considered best.
I chose Cetol, but many also recommend Australian Oil.

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