Ask me anything about Light Bulbs!

[mrcantrell]

Hi Everyone;
I work closely with a major worldwide light bulb manufacturer and have extensive knowledge of light bulbs. For what I don't know I certainly have access to the answers.

Feel free to ask me questions about light bulbs, and associated topics.

[Blunt]

Hi,
I'm looking for a light bulb that's similar to GE Reveal, but I want it in an energy efficient CFL. Is there such a thing?
I hate the 'daylight' type light.

[Pete_Coach]

Why are my CFL bulbs not really putting out the equivalent light they say they replace? I have two lamps, one has a 100 watt regular bulb and the other has the CCFL equivilent and there is a clear difference, the cfl being much "duller".

[mrcantrell]

Hi,
I'm looking for a light bulb that's similar to GE Reveal, but I want it in an energy efficient CFL. Is there such a thing?
I hate the 'daylight' type light.

Are you looking to replace an incandescent (ie regular) light bulb? I'm going to answer on the assumption you are.

Long story short, what you're looking for is a CFL where the Colour Temperature is 3000K.

Long story, GE Reveal which is the same as lots of other manufacturers incandescents, differentiate themselves by have neodynium in the gas mix. The neodynium is used to tweak the colour spectrum and to increase the colour temperature of the lamp.

Colour temperature is how white the light output is from a bulb (measured in Kelvin or K), not how bright. The higher the colour temperature the whiter the light, for most people the light begins to look blue as the colour temperature increases. I can get into this more if anyone is interested.

Most incandescent light bulbs are 2700K, so most people have come to prefer that colour, even though there is no good reason. The GE Reveal (although I can't find a concrete number to support this I'm going out on a limb and assuming it's the same as every other manufacturer) is around 2900K (which is closer to halogen).

If you want to more closely match the GE Reveal look for a CFL with a Colour Temperature or CCT of 3000K or there abouts.

[mrcantrell]

Why are my CFL bulbs not really putting out the equivalent light they say they replace? I have two lamps, one has a 100 watt regular bulb and the other has the CCFL equivilent and there is a clear difference, the cfl being much "duller".

'Dull' can be 2 things, it can be Lumen output (or light output) or Colour temperature. If it's Lumen output then you're simply not getting the same amount of light from the CFL. If 'dull' is yellow, then you need a whiter colour temperature, most people see white as 'bright' even though it really isn't.

You have 2 options I can suggest.

i) Try to figure out the Lumen Output from the 100 Watt that you are trying to replace and look for a CFL with similar Lumen output. Much easier said than done.

ii) Try a bulb with a higher colour temperature. If you look on the ballast (the base) of the bulb it may say what the colour temperature is, if so just go up to the next colour temperature step offered by your prefered manufacturer. If not, try 3000K to start, and move up if that doesn't satisfy.

[15-20_God]

how many RFD'ers does it take to screw one in?

[mrcantrell]

how many RFD'ers does it take to screw one in?

All of them.

What's the difference between a pregnant woman and a light bulb?

Answer: You can unscrew a light bulb.

[sjb110]

'you can unscrew a light bulb...'

[felix2000]

Just finishing doing lots of reno's to the house and lighting changes were a major part. Since CFLs can't be dimmed and other than using regular old bulbs is there anything else that can be used that's dimmable and more power efficient?

Thanks

[ricoboxing]

are those Sunbeam CF bulbs at dollarama any better or worse than the Globe or Phillips ones at HD?

[mrcantrell]

Just finishing doing lots of reno's to the house and lighting changes were a major part. Since CFLs can't be dimmed and other than using regular old bulbs is there anything else that can be used that's dimmable and more power efficient?

Thanks

There is an entire line of Dimmable CFLs on the market now from most manufacturers. Just make sure you buy the ones that specify they are dimmable.

[mrcantrell]

are those Sunbeam CF bulbs at dollarama any better or worse than the Globe or Phillips ones at HD?

Definately. But Globe is also garbage.

There have been a LOT of problems associated with no name CFLs (Globe is not a manufacturer, so who's making the product in their box???) including excess buzzing, shorter bulb life, excess mercury, inconsistant colour temperatures, steeper mortality curves etc etc etc.

For a few cents more buy a brand name from a manufacturer who you trust and stands behind their product. I'm not saying it'll be perfect, but at least you have a huge name to smear through the mud if you have problems.

I could go more into the reasons to buy CFLs from the manufacturers you know and trust over the no name, but I think I'd bore you.

[tareks]

Are there energy efficient T3 halogen bulbs - equivalent to 100W?

[UberDave]

I'm planning on installing a 48" fluorescent fixture with two T-8 tubes in my garage to replace the 100W type-A bulb that is there. The garage is a single car garage and I want the light to illuminate the back of the garage as much as possible but the fixture wiring is in the middle so that's where I have to mount it.

Should I mount the light perpendicular to the garage (ends toward side walls) or parallel (ends of light toward door and back)?

[poohsing]

we've replaced all of our lightbulbs with CFL. Where can I recycle the old lightbulbs that still function?

[mrcantrell]

Are there energy efficient T3 halogen bulbs - equivalent to 100W?

Are you refering to bi-pin(2 pins as the connector) or double ended (small linear tube, usually 79mm or 119mm with ceramic at either end)?

Halogen is already energy efficient. On average halogen is 30% more efficient than incandescent. Until your bulbs burn out don't worry about replacing halogen.

[mrcantrell]

I'm planning on installing a 48" fluorescent fixture with two T-8 tubes in my garage to replace the 100W type-A bulb that is there. The garage is a single car garage and I want the light to illuminate the back of the garage as much as possible but the fixture wiring is in the middle so that's where I have to mount it.

Should I mount the light perpendicular to the garage (ends toward side walls) or parallel (ends of light toward door and back)?

This one depends completely on the fixture itself. Look at the reflectors and bevels on the fixture, and try to aim it accordingly. My first thought though is that you may want to put in 2 fixtures, one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3 the length of the garage.

[mrcantrell]

we've replaced all of our lightbulbs with CFL. Where can I recycle the old lightbulbs that still function?

Disposal of CFLs is a municipal concern, and differs from one municipality to another. Some treat them as hazardus waste, some will take them in your recycling and others want you to just throw them in the regular garbage.

I know that most Home Depot stores have CFL recycling programs, so if you can't get any information from your town, pop in there and ask where the box is.

[Phantasm]

Why do the CFLs that I buy always end up burning out way sooner than the packaging states?

I've had CFL bulbs for my outdoor light and they are only on for a few hours per night, and after less than 2 years they burned out. Now it could be due to outdoor conditions, but I've had a CFL bulbs in my laundry room and computer room which only lasted about 3 years and they are toast... I remember the packaging claiming 7+ year life.

After the CFL bulbs burned out in my computer room I decided to install a dimmer and buy some dimmable CFL (mainly because of the $4 off energy star rebate that was going on earlier this year). These "dimmable" CFL bulbs (Globe brand) were complete garbage right out of the box. If I slide the dimmer down 1/2 way, the bulbs only dim about 15%, then if I slide the dimmer down 3/4 of the way, the bulbs basically turn off or start flickering. I pretty much used them at full brightness for about 2 months because they didn't dim worth a crap and then one of them burned out and the other started flickering like a strobe light constantly!

I guess my main question is, do CFL's really suck that much or do I just have bad luck with them? What about LED bulbs, I've seen some very low wattage ones at HD, are these any good?

I'm back to using regular incandescent bulbs almost everywhere in my house again.

[Habsfan]

I'm beginning to build a new home next month and will have a variety of pot lights, fixture and scones. What bulbs are currently the most cost effective and still effective. LCD's appear to be the way of the future but are still not yet cost effective. Any thoughts would help in making my fixtures selection.

[mrcantrell]

Why do the CFLs that I buy always end up burning out way sooner than the packaging states?

I've had CFL bulbs for my outdoor light and they are only on for a few hours per night, and after less than 2 years they burned out. Now it could be due to outdoor conditions, but I've had a CFL bulbs in my laundry room and computer room which only lasted about 3 years and they are toast... I remember the packaging claiming 7+ year life.

After the CFL bulbs burned out in my computer room I decided to install a dimmer and buy some dimmable CFL (mainly because of the $4 off energy star rebate that was going on earlier this year). These "dimmable" CFL bulbs (Globe brand) were complete garbage right out of the box. If I slide the dimmer down 1/2 way, the bulbs only dim about 15%, then if I slide the dimmer down 3/4 of the way, the bulbs basically turn off or start flickering. I pretty much used them at full brightness for about 2 months because they didn't dim worth a crap and then one of them burned out and the other started flickering like a strobe light constantly!

I guess my main question is, do CFL's really suck that much or do I just have bad luck with them? What about LED bulbs, I've seen some very low wattage ones at HD, are these any good?

I'm back to using regular incandescent bulbs almost everywhere in my house again.

There's an old saying that goes "you get what you pay for".

Globe is not a manufacturer (as I've previously noted) so you have no idea who is making their bulbs. They are buying the cheapest bulbs they can to make the biggest profits. One of the reasons they can sell for less is that they have lower overhead.
Sylvania, Philips, GE and companies actually manufacturing the bulbs are investing billions in Research and Development of new or improved products. Spend a little extra money on a good brand bulb and you'll see the difference.

Also, read your packaging carefully. You'll notice that some of the boxes say "up to 7 years" or "up to 8,000 hours". Others will quote an ARLL or Average Rated Lamp Life of 7 years or 8,000 hours. It's a subtle but very important distinction between the verbage.

Okay, now that I've got that out of my system here's some reasons you may find shorter lamp life.

i) Base orientation - The optimal orientation is base down (ie the ballast is under the fluorescent tube), after that is base horizontal (ie the ballast is beside the tube) and finally base up (ie the ballast is on top of the tube). Using base up orientation can cut the life of the bulb because the heat generated by the tubes is directed directly into the electronics and eventually cuts their life.

ii) Extreme environment - Extreme temperatures can effect the overall operation (and therefore life) of the bulb.

iii) Dirty power - The electronic ballasts in CFLs aren't as forgiving to power surges and spikes as incandescents. Sometimes people living in small towns experience more power problems than their big city counterparts (this can even occur in big cities) and continuously find shorter bulb life. There isn't an answer to this issue unfortunately.

iv) Timers - CFLs in general are not designed to work with timers. I've never understood why but that could also be reducing your bulb life.

v) Dimmers - Using dimmers on non-dimmable CFLs is a sure-fire way to cut bulb life.

Note that these aren't all the reasons, just some possibilities.

[mrcantrell]

I'm beginning to build a new home next month and will have a variety of pot lights, fixture and scones. What bulbs are currently the most cost effective and still effective. LCD's appear to be the way of the future but are still not yet cost effective. Any thoughts would help in making my fixtures selection.

:) I think you mean LED or Light Emitting Diode. LCD is Liquid Crystal Display.

At this point in time your best bet is to design around integrated ballast compact fluorescent bulbs. These are the bulbs most people are buying to replace incandescent bulbs in their home. There's a few benefits to them, especially over LED.

Upfront Cost - LEDs are very expensive, especially the good ones. For the amount of money you are going to save in power over the life of the bulb I am a firm beliver that CFLs are the only option at this time.

Lifetime Cost - There isn't enough of a power savings in LED technology to make it worth the extra upfront cost.

Retrofit - Using a medium (aka standard aka E26) base affords you the ability to switch to other technologies (aka LED) when they are ready with minimal cost.

Proven technology - Fluorescent technology has been around for decades, LEDs (as a general or task light) have been around for a couple of years.

[vdub07]

I'm looking for bulbs that have minimal filament buzz when dimmed - medium base, 40-60w.

Q1: Is such a thing readily available?

Q2: Are there line voltage Xenon type bulbs (25w or so) that come with medium base/socket that I could use instead?

[l69norm]

Q1:Will high efficiency halogen incaldecent lamps that meet the Ontario standards make it to the market by 2012?
Q2:How/why do they work better than the incaldencent lamp bulbs we have today and will they be a good alternative to CFL?

[yomister]

You said to buy "big name brands". Then which brands are big names? Who makes Ikea's bulbs and are they any good?

Another question: how dangerous is a broken CFL (and the mercury fumes)?

[mrcantrell]

I'm looking for bulbs that have minimal filament buzz when dimmed - medium base, 40-60w.

Q1: Is such a thing readily available?

Q2: Are there line voltage Xenon type bulbs (25w or so) that come with medium base/socket that I could use instead?

I'm not sure what technology you're using (ie, halogen, incandescent etc) but I've never heard of this issue before. Perhaps if you can expand on your problem I can look further into it.

Q2: Why do you want Xenon bulbs? Are you looking for directional (ie with a reflector) or general lighting? If you can tell me your application I might be able to help further.

[johnboy]

Hello!

Where do I go about finding the same type of fixtures (MH, at least 6000K) that big box stores use? And how much am I expecting to pay?

Thanks!

[mrcantrell]

Q1:Will high efficiency halogen incaldecent lamps that meet the Ontario standards make it to the market by 2012?
Q2:How/why do they work better than the incaldencent lamp bulbs we have today and will they be a good alternative to CFL?

i) I'm not sure what you're refering to because halogen and incandescent are 2 completely different technologies. I'm going to assume you are asking about halogen since there is no possibility of a high efficiency incandescent.

Halogen technology is already on average 30% more efficient than incandescent. I have never heard of a high efficiency halogen, but I suppose anything is possible. According to the legislative requirements that are coming, all general lighting bulbs on the market must meet a minimum efficacy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy) (or lumens produced per watt consumed) requirements. The efficacy requirements just happen to be 30% more efficient than currently possible with incandescent technology... anyone notice a coincidence? The reason the government has chosen 30% to get rid of incandescent technology. Don't worry, they are planning to get rid of halogen in 2015.

All this being said nothing is set in stone yet. And the legislation only applies to general lighting bulbs, any 'Decor' bulbs (like those in chandeliers and in bathroom fixtures) are safe for the time being.


ii) Halogen is not an alternative to Fluorescent technology. Eventually halogen will be legislated out as well. It has no where near the efficacy of CFLs.

[mrcantrell]

You said to buy "big name brands". Then which brands are big names? Who makes Ikea's bulbs and are they any good?

I mean manufacturers like Philips, GE and Sylvania. These are the major manufacturers in Canada who have solid reputations and quality products.

Who makes Ikea's bulbs and are they any good?

Up until recently it was Osram. I'm not sure who won the contract after them though.

Another question: how dangerous is a broken CFL (and the mercury fumes)?

Great question. Health Canada has recently released an official document on this exact topic, and their findings were that in general CFLs are safe for 99.9% of the population (the people who might have issues are people suffering from Lupus, and that has nothing to do with Mercury). If you have issues with a broken CFL, open a window to air out the room, and carefully dispose of the broken parts with gloves or covered hands. So not nearly as dangerous as some members of the media would have you believe.

In better CFLs the amount of Mercury is closely controlled and tends to be barely worth worrying about. However studies show that the same can't be said for most off brand bulbs.

[mrcantrell]

Hello!

Where do I go about finding the same type of fixtures (MH, at least 6000K) that big box stores use? And how much am I expecting to pay?

Thanks!

Same type as what? I know that Lowe's has a selection of Metal Halide bulbs. Prices vary greatly depending on the manufacturer and product line. I've seen HIDs for $20 each and I've seen HIDs for $1,300 each.

[l69norm]

i) ...Halogen technology is already on average 30% more efficient than incandescent. I have never heard of a high efficiency halogen, ....


I'm thinking about the GE Halogen Infra Red (HIR) Plus bulbs used in commercial lamps that are suppose to be 40%-50% more efficient than existing halogen lamps:
http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/products/hir_plus_halogen_par38/

Do you think these will hit the consumer market for 2012?

[mrcantrell]

I'm thinking about the GE Halogen Infra Red (HIR) Plus bulbs used in commercial lamps that are suppose to be 40%-50% more efficient than existing halogen lamps:
http://www.gelighting.com/na/business_lighting/products/hir_plus_halogen_par38/

Do you think these will hit the consumer market for 2012?

Ah, yes, IR. I've never heard of it referred to as High Efficiency Halogen but that's exactly what it is.

IR is already available on the consumer market, at least from Sylvania. There is a large price premium though, at least 60% more. You may need to go into a specialty lighting store to find it.

As I stated of Halogen previously they already meet minimum efficacy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luminous_efficacy) standards, so IR will have no issue since it's already approx 75% of wattage for the same lumen (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumen_(unit)) output from regular Halogen.

[yomister]

interesting! thanks for answering

[mrcantrell]

interesting! thanks for answering

You're welcome!

[clock]

Do you know anywhere in TO I can find 9" & 21" Straight Pin CFL bulb for a good price? (Aside from aquarium shop who sell them for like $50 each...)

Samples photo of the Straight-Pin CFL:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/thumbnail/th-33971-46247-fish-supply.jpg

Can't seem to find them in any hardware store (homedepot, rona, wal-mart) or lighting shop. (I was actually able to find the 9" 18w straight pin at wal-mart once for $8, aquarium shop were selling them for like $25....but i haven't see it in wal-mart again ever since)

[mrcantrell]

Do you know anywhere in TO I can find 9" & 21" Straight Pin CFL bulb for a good price? (Aside from aquarium shop who sell them for like $50 each...)

Samples photo of the Straight-Pin CFL:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/thumbnail/th-33971-46247-fish-supply.jpg

Can't seem to find them in any hardware store (homedepot, rona, wal-mart) or lighting shop. (I was actually able to find the 9" 18w straight pin at wal-mart once for $8, aquarium shop were selling them for like $25....but i haven't see it in wal-mart again ever since)

What are you using it for?

[clock]

What are you using it for?
Planted Freshwater Aquarium
Most of the aquarium light fixtures uses straight pin CFL, and I typically need kelvin rating between 5000-10000K.

[mrcantrell]

Planted Freshwater Aquarium
Most of the aquarium light fixtures uses straight pin CFL, and I typically need kelvin rating between 5000-10000K.

It's been explained to me that the bulbs you get from the pet store are not the same. They have UVA and UVB that is specialized for their application. This is why they are so much more expensive.

For the best health of your aquarium and it's inhabitiants it's advised to buy the specialized bulbs.

[clock]

Actually..the UVA/UVB bulb are for reptiles.
Not necessary for plants or fish at all.

GE actually makes the bulb I wanted to buy, and aren't too expensive, but I can only find it on US and US based website...
Many aquarium and plants owner in US use these bulbs and are very happy with it. Just can't find it in Canada.

This is the bulb I am talking about -> http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=15381

It's been explained to me that the bulbs you get from the pet store are not the same. They have UVA and UVB that is specialized for their application. This is why they are so much more expensive.

For the best health of your aquarium and it's inhabitiants it's advised to buy the specialized bulbs.

[vdub07]

I'm not sure what technology you're using (ie, halogen, incandescent etc) but I've never heard of this issue before. Perhaps if you can expand on your problem I can look further into it.

Q2: Why do you want Xenon bulbs? Are you looking for directional (ie with a reflector) or general lighting? If you can tell me your application I might be able to help further.

I'm currently using standard dimmed incandecent over the island in the kitchen while our under-cabinet lights are dimmed xenon.

I've noticed from day 1 that the lights over the island have a high-pitched buzz when dimmed - not noticeable from afar but something I find annoying when near by. I may try other brands to see if they make a difference.

The idea of using xenon over the island was only to better match the tone of the other lights while, hopefully, eliminating the noise.

Thanks!

[mrcantrell]

Actually..the UVA/UVB bulb are for reptiles.
Not necessary for plants or fish at all.


Shows what I know about UVA/UVB bulbs.

The base on that bulb is a fairly usual setup, but there are a few different iterations of it. Your best bet is a specialty lighting store where if they don't have it in they can order it in. I'm not sure how much money your going to save over a pet store though, and it may be harder to get a colour temperature over 6500K. Have you tried Home Depot?

[mrcantrell]

I'm currently using standard dimmed incandecent over the island in the kitchen while our under-cabinet lights are dimmed xenon.

I've noticed from day 1 that the lights over the island have a high-pitched buzz when dimmed - not noticeable from afar but something I find annoying when near by. I may try other brands to see if they make a difference.

The idea of using xenon over the island was only to better match the tone of the other lights while, hopefully, eliminating the noise.

Thanks!

Xenon is not going to do anything for noise, it's a cooling gas. It's a pretty pointless one too. You give up colour and light output for a cooler temperature, you'd be much better off getting a lower wattage bulb. For some odd reason everyone seems to thinks Xenon is some wonder-gas, but it doesn't do you any favours.

Are you using the same dimmer for the incandecents as for the under-cabinet fixtures?

[vdub07]

Xenon is not going to do anything for noise, it's a cooling gas. It's a pretty pointless one too. You give up colour and light output for a cooler temperature, you'd be much better off getting a lower wattage bulb. For some odd reason everyone seems to thinks Xenon is some wonder-gas, but it doesn't do you any favours.


The xenon lights under the cabinet are pretty much silent when dimmed but the main reason I went with "wonder-gas" is because they ran cooler than the alternatives. I felt that it was the best option for that particular application.


Are you using the same dimmer for the incandecents as for the under-cabinet fixtures?

Yes, they're the exact same.

Through some googling I just came across some that claim that Phillips bulbs don't buzz as loud. I'll pick some up and see if they make a difference.

[mrcantrell]

The xenon lights under the cabinet are pretty much silent when dimmed but the main reason I went with "wonder-gas" is because they ran cooler than the alternatives. I felt that it was the best option for that particular application.

You'd be much better off going for a lower wattage bulb.


Yes, they're the exact same.

Through some googling I just came across some that claim that Phillips bulbs don't buzz as loud. I'll pick some up and see if they make a difference.

You may be having issues because you're using a 120V dimmer on 12V bulbs. You might try looking into a low voltage dimmer. Dimmers aren't my specialty, just a thought.

[buyways]

I have a 'UV sterilizer" as part of my fishtank system - basically, the tank water circulates past an encased UV bulb after the pump; the UV is supposed to kill off any pathogens in the water.
My question is whether I would be getting much extension of the UV bulb life if I put the UV lamp on a timer (e.g. 12 hours on, 12 hours off) instead of leaving it on continuously - or would the on/off action nullify any life extension obtained from cutting the on time in half?

[Cheapo-Findo]

Are LEDs good for replacing light bulbs?

[johnboy]

Same type as what? I know that Lowe's has a selection of Metal Halide bulbs. Prices vary greatly depending on the manufacturer and product line. I've seen HIDs for $20 each and I've seen HIDs for $1,300 each.

Oh right, the same/similar fixtures that HD or Rona hangs to light up their own stores. I want to give my koi some decent lighting in the basement pond without spending $500+ on MH or HQI pendents meant for fish. I'm trying to look for a much cheaper atlernative and it seems that those ones that are used to light up big box stores is good enough.

Thanks!

[buyways]

Do you know anywhere in TO I can find 9" & 21" Straight Pin CFL bulb for a good price? (Aside from aquarium shop who sell them for like $50 each...)

Samples photo of the Straight-Pin CFL:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/thumbnail/th-33971-46247-fish-supply.jpg

Can't seem to find them in any hardware store (homedepot, rona, wal-mart) or lighting shop. (I was actually able to find the 9" 18w straight pin at wal-mart once for $8, aquarium shop were selling them for like $25....but i haven't see it in wal-mart again ever since)

You probably know this (and they're not exactly cheap sources either), but you can get Compact Fluorescent (a.k.a Power Compact or PC) bulbs here:

http://www.mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/ushop/Straight-Pin-PC-Lamps.html?L+scstore+fsgv9937ff373d37+1251749893
and here:
http://www.bigalsonline.ca/BigAlsCA/ctl3664/cp17950/cl0/powercompactlamps?viewType=Category
and here:
http://www.petsandponds.com/en/aquarium-supplies/c5813/c263448/index.html

[winterspring]

hi, i need a sunlight alternarive ( plant grow light ) , i've checked MH HID but they're expensive. Can you suggest something else which is inexpensive and where i can get them?

[mrcantrell]

I have a 'UV sterilizer" as part of my fishtank system - basically, the tank water circulates past an encased UV bulb after the pump; the UV is supposed to kill off any pathogens in the water.
My question is whether I would be getting much extension of the UV bulb life if I put the UV lamp on a timer (e.g. 12 hours on, 12 hours off) instead of leaving it on continuously - or would the on/off action nullify any life extension obtained from cutting the on time in half?

For that long a cycle time I don't think you're going to see a big difference but the fewer cycles the longer the life of the filiment, so in theory you would get a longer life leaving it on all the time.

[mrcantrell]

Are LEDs good for replacing light bulbs?

If you can find good ones, they're too expensive to be worth considering over CFLs. Give it another year and make sure you don't buy cheap crap!!!

Colour temperatures are way too high in most cases, and actual light output is seldom near what's advertised. If neither of these are true you're looking at between $100 - $200 each bulb.

At this point in time, I wouldn't waste money on anything less than $100 a bulb.

[mrcantrell]

Oh right, the same/similar fixtures that HD or Rona hangs to light up their own stores. I want to give my koi some decent lighting in the basement pond without spending $500+ on MH or HQI pendents meant for fish. I'm trying to look for a much cheaper atlernative and it seems that those ones that are used to light up big box stores is good enough.

Thanks!

Those are going to be about $1000 for the fixture with the ballast and around $75 a bulb. The bulbs usually use around 400 watts.

I don't think you're going to save anything by going this route. Also, the buzzing of the ballasts will drive you absolutely nuts!

[mrcantrell]

hi, i need a sunlight alternarive ( plant grow light ) , i've checked MH HID but they're expensive. Can you suggest something else which is inexpensive and where i can get them?

For plant growth I believe you need special UVA/UVB bulbs. You should try a specialty store for hydroponics.

[vdub07]

You'd be much better off going for a lower wattage bulb.

Not really... dimmed for atmosphere, not-dimmed when actually using the kitchen. It's my understanding that xenon runs cooler than the under-cabinet alternatives so it doesn't heat up the cabinets as much.

You may be having issues because you're using a 120V dimmer on 12V bulbs. You might try looking into a low voltage dimmer. Dimmers aren't my specialty, just a thought.

Nope... everything's line voltage. They are just normal bulbs.

http://www.google.ca/search?q=filament+buzz

[mrcantrell]

Not really... dimmed for atmosphere, not-dimmed when actually using the kitchen. It's my understanding that xenon runs cooler than the under-cabinet alternatives so it doesn't heat up the cabinets as much.



Nope... everything's line voltage. They are just normal bulbs.

http://www.google.ca/search?q=filament+buzz

Like I said, I'm not an expert on dimmers.

As for Xenon, yes it does run cooler, like I said, but at the expense of lumen output. If you want cooler temperatures you might as well save money and effort and just go with a lower wattage bulb.

[albatman]

Great thread!
I have two questions:
1. Where can I find a low wattage CFL, < 5 watts? 100 lumens...
2. where can you find GU10 CFL that would replace this:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=901812&Ntt=901812&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

thanks!

[mrcantrell]

Great thread!
I have two questions:
1. Where can I find a low wattage CFL, < 5 watts? 100 lumens...

Sylvania makes at least 3 different CFLs that are 5 watts or less. There are 2 cold cathode dimmable CFLs (one is shaped like an A bulb and the other like a B) that might suit your purpose since I don't think there are any CFLs less than 250 lumens, they should be around $10 each. You can get these at Lowe's or at a lighting showroom.


2. where can you find GU10 CFL that would replace this:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=901812&Ntt=901812&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=0&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
Although I've been asked a lot, I've never personally seen a GU-10 CFL. If you could find one it wouldn't be the same size as the halogen, there's no where to put the ballast in the shape of the halogen GU-10.

thanks!
You're welcome!

[sq380]

I have a cfl bulb I bought from ikea a while back, it takes approx 5 mins for it to fully light up... Is it bulb dying and is it the time to replace it?

[mrcantrell]

I have a cfl bulb I bought from ikea a while back, it takes approx 5 mins for it to fully light up... Is it bulb dying and is it the time to replace it?

Nope, the bulb is likely fine. CFLs take anywhere from 20 seconds to 2 minutes to warm up. Newer CFLs are now available with 'instant on' technology where you get approx 80-90% of light output within 1 second and the rest in around 10-20 seconds.

Personally, I find the warm up time very annoying and I've put instant on bulbs into locations where I need the light right away, such as my foyer and bedroom. I leave the slow warm up bulbs for places where I don't notice it as much, like my living room and my dining room.

[vanhalen26]

Hi - I have 14 par 20 light bulbs in my basement, and at least one seems to go weekly. We had the wiring looked at and was told it was fine - so we will make do with the wiring as is. That said - I'd like to buy bulbs in bulk as at retail they are $5- each, which adds up. Any ideas where to look in Toronto? Thanks

[Nanodollars]

I was hoping you could recommend a CFL replacement for the Par20 floods that are used in the potlights in my kitchen. I enjoy the light that the 50W halogens produce but the burn out way too often and consume too much energy as there are 10 in the area.

No luck at the usual places (HD, WM, Rona...). I found some at WM but they did not give the same output as the halogens. Any suggestions.....

[sq380]

Nope, the bulb is likely fine. CFLs take anywhere from 20 seconds to 2 minutes to warm up. Newer CFLs are now available with 'instant on' technology where you get approx 80-90% of light output within 1 second and the rest in around 10-20 seconds.

Personally, I find the warm up time very annoying and I've put instant on bulbs into locations where I need the light right away, such as my foyer and bedroom. I leave the slow warm up bulbs for places where I don't notice it as much, like my living room and my dining room.

Oh okay, it didn't take that long to warm up before and I find it's not as bright as before even when fully lit. Just a week ago I noticed this.

[mrcantrell]

Hi - I have 14 par 20 light bulbs in my basement, and at least one seems to go weekly. We had the wiring looked at and was told it was fine - so we will make do with the wiring as is. That said - I'd like to buy bulbs in bulk as at retail they are $5- each, which adds up. Any ideas where to look in Toronto? Thanks

I think you should be more concerned with the root of the problem rather than looking for a bandaid.

i) Who makes the Par20s you are currently buying?
ii) What is the rated voltage?
iii) How is the power in your area?
iv) How is the power in your home?
v) What fixtures are you putting them into?
vi) How long is the life of any one bulb (approximately)?

If you're buying crappy light bulbs then that would contribute to early mortality. The bulbs should have some sort of a manufacturer warranty, if they're dying prematurely you should be getting them replaced by the retailer or the manufacturer. To be honest, $5.00 for a Par20 at retail sounds too cheap, you may want to try a different retailer.

If you live in an area with 'dirty power' then your best bet is to move to a 130V bulb. The filament in the 130V is hardier, but you sacrifice light output. For people with power issues this maybe the best option.

Try to see how long any one bulb is lasting. It may just be the rotation that they're burning out in rather than actual short life.

There may also be issues with the fixtures you've got them in, has anyone looked into that? Maybe there's a short inside the box?

[mrcantrell]

I was hoping you could recommend a CFL replacement for the Par20 floods that are used in the potlights in my kitchen. I enjoy the light that the 50W halogens produce but the burn out way too often and consume too much energy as there are 10 in the area.

No luck at the usual places (HD, WM, Rona...). I found some at WM but they did not give the same output as the halogens. Any suggestions.....

Try looking for a R20, I know that there are R20 CFLs available. The problem is that it's a bigger bulb, so it might not fit into the fixture as nicely. Maybe buy one, bring it home and see how you like it before buying all of them.

Don't forget that if you have a dimmer on your pot lights you'll need to buy dimmable CFLs.

[mrcantrell]

Oh okay, it didn't take that long to warm up before and I find it's not as bright as before even when fully lit. Just a week ago I noticed this.

It's possible it's at the end of it's life. You might also try tightening it in the socket to make sure it's still sitting properly, but always by the plastic ballast, never by the tubes.

Just as a PSA I'd be careful of what fixtures I buy from Ikea, they use a lot of non-standard bulbs and you may not be able to find replacements when the time comes.

That being said the #1 piece of advice I give to people is when buying a light fixture make sure you can readily get replacement bulbs for it! There is nothing worse than spending money on a light fixture you love to find out that once those bulbs are gone you need to toss the fixture.

[petey123]

Hey folks...what natural light desk lamp would you recommend for studying? Right now we're looking at a verilux one on amazon and some ott lite at sears, but i think ott lite seems most popular?

[sq380]

It's possible it's at the end of it's life. You might also try tightening it in the socket to make sure it's still sitting properly, but always by the plastic ballast, never by the tubes.

Just as a PSA I'd be careful of what fixtures I buy from Ikea, they use a lot of non-standard bulbs and you may not be able to find replacements when the time comes.

That being said the #1 piece of advice I give to people is when buying a light fixture make sure you can readily get replacement bulbs for it! There is nothing worse than spending money on a light fixture you love to find out that once those bulbs are gone you need to toss the fixture.


Yeah that bulb is gone, it barely lights up now, I replaced it with another CFL and it works great.

For lighting fixture it can be used with any bulb not just the ikea ones, I bought a 3 pack of Ikea cfl's and put into my exisiting fixture.

[mrcantrell]

Hey folks...what natural light desk lamp would you recommend for studying? Right now we're looking at a verilux one on amazon and some ott lite at sears, but i think ott lite seems most popular?

I bought one from Costco a few years ago for around $30 that's wonderful. I've heard good things about Ott until you try to change the bulb. Don't pay extra for bulbs or fixtures that claim they help with SADs or Seasonal mood shifts.

You could just get a fixture you like and put in a 6500K bulb.

[yvrwindsor]

I bought an Advance T8 Ballast http://www.bchydro.com/ecatalog/eCatServlet?cmd=generate_pdf&prdId=9992&cId=109&pid=&rid=&eid=&t=Advance%20Transformer-Centium%20Instant%20Start-ICN2P32N35M . If used with 2 48in 32 watt flourescent lamps, the ballast input wattage is 59 watts. Is 59 watts the total wattage or do I have to add 64 watts (2x32) for the lamps?

[mrcantrell]

I bought an Advance T8 Ballast http://www.bchydro.com/ecatalog/eCatServlet?cmd=generate_pdf&prdId=9992&cId=109&pid=&rid=&eid=&t=Advance%20Transformer-Centium%20Instant%20Start-ICN2P32N35M . If used with 2 48in 32 watt flourescent lamps, the ballast input wattage is 59 watts. Is 59 watts the total wattage or do I have to add 64 watts (2x32) for the lamps?

It's the ballasts job to regulate voltage and wattage requirements for the bulbs. Usually the ballast itself loses some power during this process.

If you note the ballast factor indicated for your setup you'll see that this ballast is only running your lamps at 88% of their rated output (thus generating longer lamp (bulb) life, but reducing your light output). This is why the input wattage is only 59 watts.

2x32 watts = 64 watts potential * 88% ballast factor = 56.32 watts going into the bulbs. 59 - 56.32 = 2.68 watts being lost to the ballast.

So your actual consumption is 59 watts.

[yvrwindsor]

Thanks mrcantrell.

For 1 tube, ballast input wattage 37, ballast factor 1.05
33.6 watts to the lamp , 3.4 loss to the ballast

Did I calculate correctly?
Does this mean the lamp will have a shorter life but brighter?

[miguel sanchez]

1) Are halgoen GU-10 bulbs included in the 2012 ban?
2) Are there any GU-10 bulbs that are more efficient than 700 lumen/50 watt bulbs that I have now?
3) Can you recommend a good CFL GU-10 that will fit in a pot light (I've got 25 of them!)

Thanks in advance!

[mbg]

Most incandescent light bulbs are 2700K, so most people have come to prefer that colour, even though there is no good reason.

Maybe this is good marketing material, but it's not true.

First of all, people have forever been complaining about harsh office lighting, which is fluorescent and of the same character. They spend 8+ hours a day at the office. They have not got used to it.

Second, people find fireplaces romantic. They find candlelight romantic. They even find the shadows cast by halogen appealing. Nobody finds CFLs romantic. I anticipate the same about LED lighting but will reserve judgement.

They are just cheaper to operate and are a token environmental gesture. I do far more than most here to live a pseudo-sustainable life (we are fooling ourselves if we think we are anywhere close) but I will not switch to CFLs and will in fact stockpile incandescents before they are banned. I use CFLs in a couple of places where I don't care -- the kitchen, for example.

People using them for outdoor lighting are fouling the street. Each one that goes up makes the street less pleasant to look at. Who cares, I guess, since everyone is inside most of the time anyway. Incandescent outdoor lighting is nice to look at and fluorescent is not. Funny that a lot of houses that are fouling the street with CFLs are clearly using incandescent indoors. You can tell just by looking at the light in the windows.

[mrcantrell]

Thanks mrcantrell.

For 1 tube, ballast input wattage 37, ballast factor 1.05
33.6 watts to the lamp , 3.4 loss to the ballast

Did I calculate correctly?


Looks right to me.


Does this mean the lamp will have a shorter life but brighter?
[/quote]

Technically we'd say you'll have higher lumen output, but the idea is right.

[mrcantrell]

1) Are halgoen GU-10 bulbs included in the 2012 ban?

No, halogen technology is 30% more efficent than incandescent. Which by coincidence is the exact number that the government has set as the efficacy requirements for the new legislation. ;)


2) Are there any GU-10 bulbs that are more efficient than 700 lumen/50 watt bulbs that I have now?

I don't know exact numbers of lumen output from one manufacturer to another, but my recommendation is to stay away from no name bulbs. I've personally seen very large differences between the quality of colour from one manufacturer to another.


3) Can you recommend a good CFL GU-10 that will fit in a pot light (I've got 25 of them!)

I've only seen one, and it was a Noma product. Noma is Canadian Tires' house brand. There's going to be a HUGE difference in the light comming from Compact Fluorescent vs Halogen.

Thanks in advance!
You're welcome.

[mrcantrell]

Maybe this is good marketing material, but it's not true.

First of all, people have forever been complaining about harsh office lighting, which is fluorescent and of the same character. They spend 8+ hours a day at the office. They have not got used to it.

Second, people find fireplaces romantic. They find candlelight romantic. They even find the shadows cast by halogen appealing. Nobody finds CFLs romantic. I anticipate the same about LED lighting but will reserve judgement.

They are just cheaper to operate and are a token environmental gesture. I do far more than most here to live a pseudo-sustainable life (we are fooling ourselves if we think we are anywhere close) but I will not switch to CFLs and will in fact stockpile incandescents before they are banned. I use CFLs in a couple of places where I don't care -- the kitchen, for example.

People using them for outdoor lighting are fouling the street. Each one that goes up makes the street less pleasant to look at. Who cares, I guess, since everyone is inside most of the time anyway. Incandescent outdoor lighting is nice to look at and fluorescent is not. Funny that a lot of houses that are fouling the street with CFLs are clearly using incandescent indoors. You can tell just by looking at the light in the windows.

You seem to be very misguided in your assumptions and understanding of lighting. Quite frankly I'm too tired to go point by point through your rant so I'll broadstroke it.

There are very big differences in the type of light that comes from different technologies (ie Incandescent, Halogen, Fluorescent, HID). Each has their different uses in different situations and to state that any one technology is lesser than another is proving that the speaker has no understanding of what they are talking about.

Saying that Compact Fluorescent is a 'token environmental gesture' is an insult and further proves that you have no clue what you're talking about. Stop believing everything you see on TV.

If you have some inteligent questions or discussion points please feel free to post them.

[lillilland]

Where can I buy 5000k (or 6000K, 6500K etc) light bulbs in Toronto? Or what's a good online supplier?

I tried the typical stores like Canadian Tire but no luck.

I found two or three sites online or on eBay that sell them, but charge $20+ for shipping.

[mbg]

There are very big differences in the type of light that comes from different technologies (ie Incandescent, Halogen, Fluorescent, HID). Each has their different uses in different situations and to state that any one technology is lesser than another is proving that the speaker has no understanding of what they are talking about.

You are a salesperson, right? I stated facts about why you were wrong with your idea that people don't like CFL simply because they aren't used to it. You have "quite frankly" chosen not to respond to that.

Also, I didn't say one technology was inferior to another. I said that fluorescent lighting is ugly and that LEDs will probably be ugly, too. I said that people who use CFLs outdoors are fouling their street. Fluorescent lighting is cost-effective in office buildings and CFLs are cheaper to leave on for hours at a time, as in outdoor lighting. But fluorescent is an ugly lighting technology, period.

Saying that Compact Fluorescent is a 'token environmental gesture' is an insult and further proves that you have no clue what you're talking about. Stop believing everything you see on TV.

They are a token environmental gesture because you would probably burn the same amount of electricity playing a video game for 1 hour than you would by leaving a light on all day, and nobody's about to stop playing video games. They are also a token because they are used to feel good about yourself without doing anything of real significance.

CFLs also don't last very long if you turn them on and off a lot. This means you have to leave them on for longer periods of time in order to get your money back, negating some of the benefit. They are good for people who leave their lights on all day, or for hours at a time. For people who already take care to turn off their lights when not in use, the benefit is not clear.

If you have some inteligent questions or discussion points please feel free to post them.

"Feel free"? I don't need your permission, lightbulb salesman. And I can spell "intelligent".

[mrcantrell]

Where can I buy 5000k (or 6000K, 6500K etc) light bulbs in Toronto? Or what's a good online supplier?

I tried the typical stores like Canadian Tire but no luck.

I found two or three sites online or on eBay that sell them, but charge $20+ for shipping.

I've seen them at Home Depot for sure, assuming your talking about a regular CFL twist.

[albatman]

I've only seen one, and it was a Noma product. Noma is Canadian Tires' house brand. There's going to be a HUGE difference in the light comming from Compact Fluorescent vs Halogen.


I just want to report back that I did try these Noma GU10s. I wouldn't normally buy Noma brand CFLs but given that these are the first ones I see (besides the ones at Rona which are too huge) I thought I might give them a shot.... big mistake.

It says on the package that CRI >=80 And colour temperature 2700 and says "Soft white" ..... no mention of how many lumens but they compare it to 35W halogen. Not sure how they measured these none of the numbers seemed correct to me: The light is very weak compared to halogen, the colour is more like 4K and not sure what to give for CRI is zero ? lol not to mention that it is not instant on (takes half a minute to warm up)

In other words, they are truely cheap CFLs, needless to say I returned them the next day.

[albatman]

I stated facts about why you were wrong with your idea that people don't like CFL simply because they aren't used to it. You have "quite frankly" chosen not to respond to that.
...... But fluorescent is an ugly lighting technology, period.


Actually he is right, it seems you need to educate yourself about CFL. Unlike incandescent light bulbs, CFL come in different colour temperatures that you can choose based on the surrounding environment. Dark/light colour furniture/walls something you cannot do with incandescent. You need to read the labels what CRI, kelvins and how many lumens.

Your statement sounds like someone who says that all computers sux and it's better to stick with typewriters.... Just because you pick the first thing on the shelf or the cheapest one without knowing what you are buying does not mean that all CFLs are ugly. Just learn that technology has made huge advances and you can now choose the colour that is right for the room.

I think the problem with CFL industry is that the good brands are not distinguishing themselves from cheap brands.... but eventually consumers will be more informed and learn how to buy them.

I have been using CFL (the right kind) for years and really found no problem with them, in fact many people lose bets when I ask them which light is CFL in our home.


They are a token environmental gesture because you would probably burn the same amount of electricity playing a video game for 1 hour than you would by leaving a light on all day, and nobody's about to stop playing video games.

Looks like you are bad at math too, 100w bulb running all day is 2.4kwh, so unless you play your video game with vacuum cleaners no video game console will consume 2400watts over an hour.

[mbg]

Actually he is right, it seems you need to educate yourself about CFL. Unlike incandescent light bulbs, CFL come in different colour temperatures that you can choose based on the surrounding environment.

I don't care what the label says. I am talking about perception.

I think that you can probably blast a room with CFL-based light and it will look fine. That is the industrial approach.

But if you want to have a localized lighting source that is relatively dim and warm, it will not work. The colour temperature doesn't change as you dim it as most other lights do.

Anyway, I am probably talking to the same people that think modern housing developments look fine.

And, by the way, the guy you are agreeing with does not agree with you: he said that CFL lighting *was* different than incandescent and that some peoples' dislike of it was based simply on prejudice.

Your statement sounds like someone who says that all computers sux and it's better to stick with typewriters....

No, I have B.Sc and M.Sc degrees in computer science and information technology. But I don't have a cell phone.

And if a typewriter was better, then I would say it. I am not afraid to criticize technology when it is not appropriate or beneficial.

Just because you pick the first thing on the shelf or the cheapest one without knowing what you are buying does not mean that all CFLs are ugly. Just learn that technology has made huge advances and you can now choose the colour that is right for the room.

Oh, so I'm not a wise consumer. Guilty. It is all garbage and my money is staying in my wallet.

I have been using CFL (the right kind) for years and really found no problem with them, in fact many people lose bets when I ask them which light is CFL in our home.

All you have shown is that some people can't tell the difference.

Looks like you are bad at math too, 100w bulb running all day is 2.4kwh, so unless you play your video game with vacuum cleaners no video game console will consume 2400watts over an hour.

15W CFL turned on all day is 0.36 kwh. That is probably what is used by some plasma TVs alone for an hour. Adding the video game systems themselves, which are now very power-hungry, certainly throws them over that limit.

I should have clarified my context: kids who run around screaming that the lights should be turned off because that is the current trend of indoctrination at public elementary school seem blissfully unaware of their other lifestyle deficiencies.

[RunnerForDeals]

I am not sure what started the arguing here and quite frankly I don't care. I don't come here to listen to people squak about who have the bigger ego or who has the most education or who can do math the best. I come here to get opinions on things. A lesson need learned by a lot of people here is to respect other peoples opinions and learn that not everyone will agree with you. Gracefully accepting someone else's opinion (whether their's is right or wrong) is a skill and clearly a few of you lack it.

Stop the arguing please, as I am already close to reporting all the arguing threads to the mods.

Now I do have a question. Can you get lights that are the money saving type (I don't care which type) that can go on a dimmer?

[mbg]

Stop the arguing please, as I am already close to reporting all the arguing threads to the mods.

Now I do have a question. Can you get lights that are the money saving type (I don't care which type) that can go on a dimmer?

You are one of the more obtuse people I have seen on these threads.

First of all, you have criticized the rhetoric that is actually informative if you take the time to read it -- the subtext is that there are unresolved issues with this technology -- and then you have asked a question that has already been answered in this thread by our resident lightbulb salesman 'mrcantrell'.

[RunnerForDeals]

You are one of the more obtuse people I have seen on these threads.

First of all, you have criticized the rhetoric that is actually informative if you take the time to read it -- the subtext is that there are unresolved issues with this technology -- and then you have asked a question that has already been answered in this thread by our resident lightbulb salesman 'mrcantrell'.

Don't know what that means, care to explain.

Now you want to start arguing with me though...sorry about that.

[mbg]

Don't know what that means, care to explain.

Now you want to start arguing with me though...sorry about that.

I explained in the paragraph below the sentence you highlighted. If you don't know what "obtuse" means then I will pre-emptively give up.

[RunnerForDeals]

Cool thanks. I will gladly oblige and be bullied out of this thread. Enjoy your arguing.

[mrcantrell]

I just want to report back that I did try these Noma GU10s. I wouldn't normally buy Noma brand CFLs but given that these are the first ones I see (besides the ones at Rona which are too huge) I thought I might give them a shot.... big mistake.

It says on the package that CRI >=80 And colour temperature 2700 and says "Soft white" ..... no mention of how many lumens but they compare it to 35W halogen. Not sure how they measured these none of the numbers seemed correct to me: The light is very weak compared to halogen, the colour is more like 4K and not sure what to give for CRI is zero ? lol not to mention that it is not instant on (takes half a minute to warm up)

In other words, they are truely cheap CFLs, needless to say I returned them the next day.

Thank you for your feedback on this lamp. I haven't personally tried it (I don't have GU10s in my home) and I'm glad to hear someones opinion.

Can you get lights that are the money saving type (I don't care which type) that can go on a dimmer?

There are 2 technologies in the dimmable CF category. One is just CF with a dimmable ballast which looks like your typical twist and the other is called Cold Cathode.
Cold Cathode has extremely long life (around 25,000 hours) but is not yet available as replacements for typical incandescent (ie very low lumen output, equiv to 25 watt) and also has long warm up times.
The Dimmable CF is a great bulb, but it can be difficult to find dimmers that work properly with them. Because the electronic ballast can work in different ways from one manufacturer to another none of the dimmer manufacturers want to spend the time & money to state which dimmers work with which bulbs. I personally have dimmable CFs in my basement and love them. Looks very much like the halogen 50 Par20s I have.

Cool thanks. I will gladly oblige and be bullied out of this thread. Enjoy your arguing.

Quite frankly I'm about to give up on this thread too. I started it to help people and try to bring some information to the masses, but this 'mbg' troll is really getting on my nerves. I think he just wants to get people riled up. I'm personally ignoring him/her.

[mbg]

Quite frankly I'm about to give up on this thread too. I started it to help people and try to bring some information to the masses, but this 'mbg' troll is really getting on my nerves. I think he just wants to get people riled up. I'm personally ignoring him/her.

Look: aside from a couple of recent posts dealing with that wanker who was asking about the dimmers, I have not been a troll in this thread. Read my posts. They are not the posts of a troll. In fact, they are helpful.

You seem to think that complexity you can't cope with = trolling. But it's not.

[krazykanuck]

Any suggestions on good outdoor that offer a bright, clean light and that can withstand the cold. I'm limited to 60W max.

For a while I had Sylvania Halogens, until they burnt and I could not find any - so I opted for some Globe CFL bulbs <Hate them, 2 have burnt in a week>

Also - any knowledge of automotive lights? [headlamps...]??

[albatman]

I don't care what the label says. I am talking about perception.
This statement shows your ignorance, well obviously having an MSc in CS doesn't mean much, so let me help you use something called "Google":

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=cfl+cri

[albatman]

Thank you for your feedback on this lamp. I haven't personally tried it (I don't have GU10s in my home) and I'm glad to hear someones opinion.
You are welcome... even though your thread is very useful, I could not find much info on GU10 CFLs, so hopefully this will help others.


Quite frankly I'm about to give up on this thread too. I started it to help people and try to bring some information to the masses, but this 'mbg' troll is really getting on my nerves. I think he just wants to get people riled up. I'm personally ignoring him/her.
Don't let him get to your nerves, he is obviously ignorant from the statements he is making.
Your contribution here is very valuable. Thanks again!

[mrcantrell]

Any suggestions on good outdoor that offer a bright, clean light and that can withstand the cold. I'm limited to 60W max.

For a while I had Sylvania Halogens, until they burnt and I could not find any - so I opted for some Globe CFL bulbs <Hate them, 2 have burnt in a week>

Personally, I love the Sylvania Crystal cut halogen post bulbs (the ones that look like a typical light bulb, but are actually halogen) I had them on the outside of my home for a long time, but I wanted something more energy efficiant.
Are your lights on timers or motion detectors? That can cause the short life of CFLs (that and the quality:lol:)
I'm not sure if Lowe's, Rona or Loblaws carries the post bulbs but they all carry the Sylvania product line.


Also - any knowledge of automotive lights? [headlamps...]??

Not a whole heck of a lot, but I can try to help.

[mrcantrell]

You are welcome... even though your thread is very useful, I could not find much info on GU10 CFLs, so hopefully this will help others.

Honestly I think you're better sticking with Halogen for GU10s. If energy consumption is the issue you could always try downgrading to a 20 or 35 watt GU10. But you are going to lose light output.

I'm not really sure what the Canadian fascination with GU10s is, they aren't nearly as prevelant in the US marketplace. Everyone is still on MR16s where there's lots of choice.