DIY Car Tools Suggestions

[Asad_A203]

Well I made a resolution this year to stop being so dependent on the dealership for all my issues and I guess it is alot more prominent since my warranty runs out in ~2 months >:(.

So I was wondering what tools you guys use and recommend to work on your vehicle? I would like to change my oil, flush my transmission fluid, install aftermarket coilovers/springs and changing the brakes and rotors (bleeding the brakes at the same time).

My current list right now has these tools:
Several wrenches (I already have this)
A Carjack (I have been using the one that comes with my car :|) - not sure which brand to get and from where (heard some horror stories from the ones at CT)
Axle Stands (any generic one like from CT?)
Ramps (looking at the EZ-Riser)
Torque Wrenches (clicker but not sure what range to get it for auto repairs, and from where)
Breaker bar (will this be necessary?)

I know some of the things I asked for will require specific tools (like for bleeding the brakes or changing to different springs).

Appreciate any input!

[craftsman]

I would get the following:

1. a good socket set w/ some deep sockets for the more popular sizes on your car.
2. a fluid extractor for changing out fluids
3. oil filter wrench
4. small wrenches for the brake bleeders
5. A large C-clamp for the disc brakes (unless you want to get the special tool for it)
6. Spark plug gapping tools (feeler gauge)

[freeonboard]

breaker bar is the first thing you need. and a suitable pipe as an extension. a torch and mapp gas to heat up bolts to break rust bond. torque wrenches are ok but you likely wont use them after awhile. the spring ones are better.

the tool i like the best right now is the ratcheting wrench with hinged head.

buy the tools at princess auto because tools get lost and stolen before they wear out unless you do mechanics for a living.

most important tool is something that allows you to get info from your ecu.

I have nissan consult which hooks up to my laptop. permanate computer in your car is even better.

[bembol]

Finding a good Mechanic's Gloves is a start. It makes it easier, prevents slips.

I have 150+ Husky Tool Set.

Breaker Bar is a MUST. I have two sets, 1/2" for Wheels and 3/8" Under the Car/Hood.

Like the Breaker Bar, I have two sets of Torque Wrench as well, picked it up from Canadian Tire last week.

I'm still looking for my 3 Ton, Low Profile, Quick Lift and at least 20" Height.

craftsman, I used a C-Clamp too when I'm working of my Brakes.

[l69norm]

Just get the basics for now and add as you go or as things come on sale.

1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" socket sets. You can often find everything in a name brand kit on sale from CT, Sears, Rona, Home Depot for about $100. Standard brand names are fine (i.e. Husky, Craftsman, Mastercraft). They are all made by the same small group of manufacturers. Princess Auto also has a kit complete with a metal took box for about $150

Car ramps - EZ risers or Rhino ramps CT or PA ($60)

2.5-3 ton trolley jack - Pick one that can get low enough to get under your car. About $100 from CT, PA or Costco

1.5 or 2 ton jack stands - PA or CT ($50 for two)

Wrench set - CT or PA ($50)

Decent screwdrivers, pliers and long nose pliers ($50)

Toolbox $30

1/2" Torque wrench ($25-$40)

[m4gician]

I just saw the commercial for the Torque Wrench attachment for your drill... $39.99

[TrevorK]

Where are you guys finding the EZ Riser for sale?

[Menthol]

What vehicle, Hummer or Civic? Make sure you buy the correct jack/jack stands to support your venicle weight. Lots of penetration oil and soak bolts and nuts day or two before working on them. A service manual for your vehicle will help.

[davebert]

All are good suggestions for the DIY mechanic. However, I've always avoided doing suspension and exhaust work until recently. I had to change out a ball joint is my car and borrowed a set of impact sockets and an electric impact driver. I can tell you there was no way to remove some of the bolts other than an impact driver and I have a 36" breaker bar.

The electric impact driver basically cut the disassembling time by more then one half. Great tool especially if you do not have compressor, but it is a little bulky. So I ended up buying a set of impact sockets and driver from Canadiantire when they when on sale for $125. Here is the link to CT.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/1/CompressorsAirTools/AirTools/PRD~0992856P/Mastercraft%2BImpact%2BGun%2B%2526%2BMaximum%2BSoc ket%2BSet%2BCombo.jsp

[jasonkwan86]

Breaker bars are great. At my house I have a small air compressor and I hook that up to some pneumatic impact tools.

[Whitedart]

Just get the basics for now and add as you go or as things come on sale.

1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" socket sets. You can often find everything in a name brand kit on sale from CT, Sears, Rona, Home Depot for about $100. Standard brand names are fine (i.e. Husky, Craftsman, Mastercraft). They are all made by the same small group of manufacturers. Princess Auto also has a kit complete with a metal took box for about $150

Car ramps - EZ risers or Rhino ramps CT or PA ($60)
2.5-3 ton trolley jack - Pick one that can get low enough to get under your car. About $100 from CT, PA or Costco
1.5 or 2 ton jack stands - PA or CT ($50 for two)
Wrench set - CT or PA ($50)
Decent screwdrivers, pliers and long nose pliers ($50)
Toolbox $30
1/2" Torque wrench ($25-$40)

Yes, that a good start. Other items can be obtained as needed.



I would get the following:

1. a good socket set w/ some deep sockets for the more popular sizes on your car.
2. a fluid extractor for changing out fluids
3. oil filter wrench
4. small wrenches for the brake bleeders
5. A large C-clamp for the disc brakes (unless you want to get the special tool for it)
6. Spark plug gapping tools (feeler gauge)

A cheap oil filter wrench will break, or be difficult to use with a poor filter grip.

A wire style plug gapping tool is more precise than a feeler gauge.

[craftsman]

A cheap oil filter wrench will break, or be difficult to use with a poor filter grip.

A wire style plug gapping tool is more precise than a feeler gauge.

I was assuming that the OP wouldn't buy cheap tools...

[bob0]

if you're just working on one car i'd suggest a oil filter socket over a wrench.

aside from what was mentioned. here are some smaller things but quite useful/important

- funnels
- oil pan (get a triangle one...easier to pour the oil out)
- another pan if you want to use for rad flushes...needs to be bigger than oil pan
- mechanic gloves or a box of latex ones. although getting your hands dirty sounds fun....it gets real annoying after the first couple times. keeps dirt from under your finger nails!
- PB blaster, great for loosening stuck bolts
- carb cleaner, good for cleaning stuff
- rags
- crawler (if you dont have a super low car)
- work light, get something bright and small/easy to move around
- wheel chocks
- dremel - good for cleaning off rusty bolts or cutting them off (i cant afford a real grinder...haha)

small things, but these do come in handy. and remember CT loans out tools for free (i think...u just gotta pay deposit)

[Asad_A203]

Thanks for the suggestions! Alot of valuable information here.

Couple things I should add, the vehicle is a G35 Coupe so after my new coilovers it will be pretty low. I am not sure if the regular car ramps will work but I think a trolley should be ok.

In terms of the other things, I have been looking around and here is my shopping list so far:


- 3 tonne Pro-Lifter Jack Stands (comes with free wheel chokes) ... $17.99 (Parts Source)
- Job Mate 87 Piece Socket kit (Parts Source) ... $15.99
Link: http://partsource.ca/_pdf/flyer.pdf
^Anyone if these things are decent and will fit my socket needs (g35 again, Bembol probably same sockets as on your Altima)?

- 1/2 DR Dual Scale Torque Wrench ... $19.88
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2919389-1/2-dr-dual-scale-torque-wrench?keyword=torque+wrench
- 3/8" dr dual scale torque wrench ... $39.88
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/8086571-3/8-dr-dual-scale-torque-wrench?keyword=torque+wrench
-1/2 DR Breaker bar
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2900050-1/2-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
- 3/8 DR Breaker bar
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2920173-3/8-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
- Car Jack
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8057577-jack-floor-2-3/4t
(79lb, damn this is one heavy beast, lol)

I know there is the other stuff but this seems to be the "meat" of my main tools. Anything I should change, look for cheaper, look for a better brand, etc.?

Thanks in advance.

[Asad_A203]

All are good suggestions for the DIY mechanic. However, I've always avoided doing suspension and exhaust work until recently. I had to change out a ball joint is my car and borrowed a set of impact sockets and an electric impact driver. I can tell you there was no way to remove some of the bolts other than an impact driver and I have a 36" breaker bar.

The electric impact driver basically cut the disassembling time by more then one half. Great tool especially if you do not have compressor, but it is a little bulky. So I ended up buying a set of impact sockets and driver from Canadiantire when they when on sale for $125. Here is the link to CT.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/1/CompressorsAirTools/AirTools/PRD~0992856P/Mastercraft%2BImpact%2BGun%2B%2526%2BMaximum%2BSoc ket%2BSet%2BCombo.jsp

I heard changing some of the bolts on the g35 strut assembly requires an impact driver especially if it has been driven in winter (my vehicle has seen 2 winters, and has not had the strut changed in the 3 years I owned it out of 6). What tools would I not need from the list if I got the tool you listed? Should I go for the air tools (I presume more powerful) or should this electric impact driver

What vehicle, Hummer or Civic? Make sure you buy the correct jack/jack stands to support your venicle weight. Lots of penetration oil and soak bolts and nuts day or two before working on them. A service manual for your vehicle will help.

G35 Coupe. 3,400lb weight, hopefully the stuff I mentioned should be fine.

Breaker bars are great. At my house I have a small air compressor and I hook that up to some pneumatic impact tools.

Would the air tools replace the need for the breaker bar or should I have them as well? Any suggestions on a aircompressor and impact tools?

[davebert]

Asad, you should not wast your money on cheap tools. CT put their Mastercraft tools with lifetime replacement warranty regularly. So, just wait for the tools you want to go on sale and pick them up.

Don't expect to get all the tools that you will ever need right away. Start with the basics, such as socket set, open/close end box and adjustable wrenches, pliers, hammer, screw driver set. This will be enough for you to do most basic car maintenance. The specialize tools can be purchased as needed.

[l69norm]

I heard changing some of the bolts on the g35 strut assembly requires an impact driver especially if it has been driven in winter (my vehicle has seen 2 winters, and has not had the strut changed in the 3 years I owned it out of 6). What tools would I not need from the list if I got the tool you listed? Should I go for the air tools (I presume more powerful) or should this electric impact driver....G35 Coupe. 3,400lb weight, hopefully the stuff I mentioned should be fine. ...Would the air tools replace the need for the breaker bar or should I have them as well? Any suggestions on a aircompressor and impact tools?

I think you should hold off on strut changes until you get a little wrench time under your belt. While it's not particularly hard, it can be a bit overwhelming for a first timer.

A breaker bar is the weapon of choice, regardless of whether you have impact tools or not.

As for power impact tools, I'd get them later. Put the money into hand tools first

My personal opinion is you would be looking at a 1/2" gun with at least 325-350 ft-lb torque, preferably 400+ ft-lb. Anything less is a toy. I prefer air, but heavy duty electric guns are also available for about $300. For air, a clone copy of a IR231 from PA is about $100 and a decent compressor (2HP) is about $300

I know people say they have success with the generic 230ft-lb $70 electric impact guns, but I've never really gotten them to work even for the simple things like lug nuts. If you want to try a cheap generic electric gun, make sure you can take back to wherever you bought it from if it's not working for you. Also, the cheapie 230 ft-lb air guns have the same problem, so I wouldn't bother with these

In general, the impact gun is more for loosening the big strut nut on the upper mount. It's not torqued that much, about 50 ft-lbs, but it's usually rusted in. If you try to loosen it with a regular wrench, the whole strut shaft spins instead. Usually, there's a keyway to hold the strut shaft while the nut is being loosened. An impact gun will just blast the nut off without spinning the shaft at all.

Soak that nut with PB Blaster for about a week before you need to take it apart. It's a lot easier to loosen while the strut is still on the car (Soak the other nuts too while you are at it).

..
- Job Mate 87 Piece Socket kit (Parts Source) ... $15.9
- 3/8" dr dual scale torque wrench ... $39.88
- 3/8 DR Breaker bar
....

I'd hold off on the 3/8" breaker bar and torque wrench. Put that money into a better socket set instead. You can get a big toolkit (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") from Costco, Sears, CT or PA for about $100 that would be better - more stuff and better quality

[freeonboard]

Thanks for the suggestions! Alot of valuable information here.

Couple things I should add, the vehicle is a G35 Coupe so after my new coilovers it will be pretty low. I am not sure if the regular car ramps will work but I think a trolley should be ok.

In terms of the other things, I have been looking around and here is my shopping list so far:


- 3 tonne Pro-Lifter Jack Stands (comes with free wheel chokes) ... $17.99 (Parts Source)
- Job Mate 87 Piece Socket kit (Parts Source) ... $15.99
Link: http://partsource.ca/_pdf/flyer.pdf
^Anyone if these things are decent and will fit my socket needs (g35 again, Bembol probably same sockets as on your Altima)?

- 1/2 DR Dual Scale Torque Wrench ... $19.88
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2919389-1/2-dr-dual-scale-torque-wrench?keyword=torque+wrench
- 3/8" dr dual scale torque wrench ... $39.88
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/8086571-3/8-dr-dual-scale-torque-wrench?keyword=torque+wrench
-1/2 DR Breaker bar
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2900050-1/2-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
- 3/8 DR Breaker bar
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2920173-3/8-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
- Car Jack
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8057577-jack-floor-2-3/4t
(79lb, damn this is one heavy beast, lol)

I know there is the other stuff but this seems to be the "meat" of my main tools. Anything I should change, look for cheaper, look for a better brand, etc.?

Thanks in advance.


most of the princess auto stuff you can get for half price if you wait for sales.

best way to get stubborn bolts is with the 10 dollar torch and mapp gas. heat them up red hot so they expand and break the rust bond. try pb blaster and breaker bar first.

[Sylvestre]

fwiw, I got the CT mastercraft impact gun & socket set on sale combined for $99. The gun goes to 250 ft-lbs and the sockets aren't half bad. Been a real work-horse for me (used on wheels, motor mounts, crank pully etc.)

Something else more important than any tool - never, ever work under your car alone. No matter how many jacks, ramps, stands, blocks etc. you have, it's just not smart to do stuff alone.

[feet_]

Thanks for the suggestions! Alot of valuable information here.

Couple things I should add, the vehicle is a G35 Coupe so after my new coilovers it will be pretty low. I am not sure if the regular car ramps will work but I think a trolley should be ok.

In terms of the other things, I have been looking around and here is my shopping list so far:


- 3 tonne Pro-Lifter Jack Stands (comes with free wheel chokes) ... $17.99 (Parts Source)
- Job Mate 87 Piece Socket kit (Parts Source) ... $15.99
Link: http://partsource.ca/_pdf/flyer.pdf
^Anyone if these things are decent and will fit my socket needs (g35 again, Bembol probably same sockets as on your Altima)?

- 1/2 DR Dual Scale Torque Wrench ... $19.88
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2919389-1/2-dr-dual-scale-torque-wrench?keyword=torque+wrench
- 3/8" dr dual scale torque wrench ... $39.88
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/8086571-3/8-dr-dual-scale-torque-wrench?keyword=torque+wrench
-1/2 DR Breaker bar
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2900050-1/2-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
- 3/8 DR Breaker bar
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2920173-3/8-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
- Car Jack
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8057577-jack-floor-2-3/4t
(79lb, damn this is one heavy beast, lol)

I know there is the other stuff but this seems to be the "meat" of my main tools. Anything I should change, look for cheaper, look for a better brand, etc.?

Thanks in advance.

i would avoid Jobmate socket set, the sockets will be alright , but the ratchet maybe be crap. get Mastercraft (CDN Tire) or Craftsmen (sears) they re guarenteed for life.
if they break, bring back and replaced no questions asked. dont even need the reciept.

cheapest tool, a turkey baster at the $1 store. to suck up old fluid from your PWR steering/Brake resivoir.

also i bought a suction tube thing from princess auto. it has a tube into a cylinder, with a handle to pull to suck up fluids.

also Princess auto has this torque multiplier ratchet attachment. it has planetary gears to increase the turning force. maybe better than a breaker bar for those tight places.
buddy removed a crank pulley with one of these.

[feet_]

oh ya since you have a japanese car, everything is metric. so try to get mostly metric sockets/ wrenchs

[feet_]

since you have coil overs im guessing you re into performance

get this fluid for brakes. hawk pads are also good.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=203727

[Brandon]

Asad, you should not wast your money on cheap tools. CT put their Mastercraft tools with lifetime replacement warranty regularly. So, just wait for the tools you want to go on sale and pick them up.

Sears as well. Their Craftsman tools go on sale regularly. A lot of my stuff I got from Sears and CT (Craftsman and Mastercraft) in 50% off sales.

+1 for the getting more metric tools. I have a Nissan Altima and Honda Civic, and it's all metric. I haven't done any work on the Altima yet as it's pretty much brand new, but looking at the bolts I'd commonly be accessing, it's all metric. I think if you have a socket/wrench set that goes up to 21mm you should be pretty good.

3 tonne Pro-Lifter Jack Stands (comes with free wheel chokes) ... $17.99 (Parts Source)

If these are anything like the wheel wedges that came with my Mastercraft jack, don't use them (don't seem like they'd be very effective). I just use bricks behind the rear wheels.

[mart242]

Something else more important than any tool - never, ever work under your car alone. No matter how many jacks, ramps, stands, blocks etc. you have, it's just not smart to do stuff alone.

When the car is on stands, put the tires sideways under the car so that if the jacks fail, the tires + rims will hold the car so it doesn't crush you.

[Asad_A203]

Thanks for the clarification! I don't mind spending more on better tools so definately let me know what they are, and I will ;).

So I would not get the 3/8 torque wrench/breaker bar but still get the 1/2 variety? I am a bit paranoid about torquing all this stuff back to factory specs when I do anything. Here is my new list:

+ Stanley 211 Piece Professional Grade Socket Set ... $125 (Reg is $300)
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Sockets/SocketSets/PRD~0589229P/Stanley%2B211-piece%2BProfessional%2BGrade%2BSocket%2BSet.jsp
Life long warranty too
+ Axle Stands mentioned before (Parts Source, 3 tonnes)
+ Jack stand mentioned before (Princess Auto, 2.75 tonnes)
+ 1/2 Breaker Bar (Princess Auto, 24" long)
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/hand-tools/sockets-accessories/2900049-1/2-dr-breaker-bar?keyword=breaker+bar
+ 1/2 Torque Wrench (Princess Auto, same one mentioned before)

[Asad_A203]

Asad, you should not wast your money on cheap tools. CT put their Mastercraft tools with lifetime replacement warranty regularly. So, just wait for the tools you want to go on sale and pick them up.

Don't expect to get all the tools that you will ever need right away. Start with the basics, such as socket set, open/close end box and adjustable wrenches, pliers, hammer, screw driver set. This will be enough for you to do most basic car maintenance. The specialize tools can be purchased as needed.

Noted!

I think you should hold off on strut changes until you get a little wrench time under your belt. While it's not particularly hard, it can be a bit overwhelming for a first timer.

A breaker bar is the weapon of choice, regardless of whether you have impact tools or not.

As for power impact tools, I'd get them later. Put the money into hand tools first

My personal opinion is you would be looking at a 1/2" gun with at least 325-350 ft-lb torque, preferably 400+ ft-lb. Anything less is a toy. I prefer air, but heavy duty electric guns are also available for about $300. For air, a clone copy of a IR231 from PA is about $100 and a decent compressor (2HP) is about $300

I know people say they have success with the generic 230ft-lb $70 electric impact guns, but I've never really gotten them to work even for the simple things like lug nuts. If you want to try a cheap generic electric gun, make sure you can take back to wherever you bought it from if it's not working for you. Also, the cheapie 230 ft-lb air guns have the same problem, so I wouldn't bother with these

In general, the impact gun is more for loosening the big strut nut on the upper mount. It's not torqued that much, about 50 ft-lbs, but it's usually rusted in. If you try to loosen it with a regular wrench, the whole strut shaft spins instead. Usually, there's a keyway to hold the strut shaft while the nut is being loosened. An impact gun will just blast the nut off without spinning the shaft at all.

Soak that nut with PB Blaster for about a week before you need to take it apart. It's a lot easier to loosen while the strut is still on the car (Soak the other nuts too while you are at it).



I'd hold off on the 3/8" breaker bar and torque wrench. Put that money into a better socket set instead. You can get a big toolkit (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") from Costco, Sears, CT or PA for about $100 that would be better - more stuff and better quality


Hmm so PB Blaster should be enough for some mediocre rusted bolts? I won't mind soaking the nut every day or so for a week if it allows me to remove my struts without power tools. Here is the DIY for changing the struts on a g35 (seems very simple but I am not going to underestimate it, will grab one of my buddies to make sure I do it properly):

http://www.g35nyc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=470

Anything there I should be concerned about? I am planning on tackling this as my 2nd DIY as it seems even easier than changing the brakes/tranny and brake fluid flush.

Once I get more comfortable with this, I will need to ask you guys about what air power tools to get.

most of the princess auto stuff you can get for half price if you wait for sales.

best way to get stubborn bolts is with the 10 dollar torch and mapp gas. heat them up red hot so they expand and break the rust bond. try pb blaster and breaker bar first.

Will keep that in mind, thanks.

fwiw, I got the CT mastercraft impact gun & socket set on sale combined for $99. The gun goes to 250 ft-lbs and the sockets aren't half bad. Been a real work-horse for me (used on wheels, motor mounts, crank pully etc.)

Something else more important than any tool - never, ever work under your car alone. No matter how many jacks, ramps, stands, blocks etc. you have, it's just not smart to do stuff alone.

Yeah I am kind of worried about that too. I think I will take mart advice and keep my OEMs on the side incase the stands fail along with my jack still up to catch the car.

since you have coil overs im guessing you re into performance

get this fluid for brakes. hawk pads are also good.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=203727

Great price, I will need to get some of that.

Sears as well. Their Craftsman tools go on sale regularly. A lot of my stuff I got from Sears and CT (Craftsman and Mastercraft) in 50% off sales.

+1 for the getting more metric tools. I have a Nissan Altima and Honda Civic, and it's all metric. I haven't done any work on the Altima yet as it's pretty much brand new, but looking at the bolts I'd commonly be accessing, it's all metric. I think if you have a socket/wrench set that goes up to 21mm you should be pretty good.



If these are anything like the wheel wedges that came with my Mastercraft jack, don't use them (don't seem like they'd be very effective). I just use bricks behind the rear wheels.

Thanks for the info! I think Altima and my car probably share similar bolts so that is good to know.

[jasonkwan86]

Sorry for the late reply. I would still recommend breaker bars as sometimes even impact tools won't budge bolts that have been set for a long time. Its always nice to ahve something as back up anyways. I would also recommend tools that have life time warranties, and make sure you check where the tools were made.

Unfortunately, Im not sure what impact tools or compressors are out there right now as , mine are at least 20 years old. Still working like new though.



Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonkwan86
Breaker bars are great. At my house I have a small air compressor and I hook that up to some pneumatic impact tools.

Would the air tools replace the need for the breaker bar or should I have them as well? Any suggestions on a aircompressor and impact tools?

[Asad_A203]

Ah ok, I think I will go and get some decent size breaker bars.

So any input on this toolset?


Stanley 211 Piece Professional Grade Socket Set ... $125 (Reg is $300)
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Sockets/SocketSets/PRD~0589229P/Stanley%2B211-piece%2BProfessional%2BGrade%2BSocket%2BSet.jsp

Seems like a good deal and lifetime warranty as well

[l69norm]

..So any input on this toolset?..

It has a lot of SAE sockets and wrenches that you won't use as your car is metric. If you were to purchase only the metric stuff, it's probably going to be almost as much so it's probably a wash cost wise.

The alternative is going to PA and buying only the metric 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" sockets, ratchets and wrenches. The advantage being that you can get the color coded sockets and click wrenches which are really nice to use.

As far as the 3/8" breaker bar goes, I think you'll never really use it. Normally smaller bolts aren't put on that tight. You would first try the 3/8" ratchet, then use a 1/2" ratchet, then escalate to the 1/2" breaker bar.

Similar with the 3/8" torque wrench, most of those bolts are hand tight anyway (0-30 ft-lbs) and the ones need specific torque are big enough for a 1/2" torque wrench.

....Hmm so PB Blaster should be enough for some mediocre rusted bolts? I won't mind soaking the nut every day or so for a week if it allows me to remove my struts without power tools. Here is the DIY for changing the struts on a g35 (seems very simple but I am not going to underestimate it, will grab one of my buddies to make sure I do it properly)...Anything there I should be concerned about? I am planning on tackling this as my 2nd DIY as it seems even easier than changing the brakes/tranny and brake fluid flush. ...

Use PB Blaster about a week before and may be again a couple days before. You can always get the nuts off with hand tools. Power tools just make the job that much faster. I think brakes are easier to do than suspension work, the main issue being that springs can be somewhat dangerous when compressed. It's easy to put a big dent in the side of your head if you don't use the tools properly

It's not hard to compress a spring with the proper tool. You can either rent the tool from CT or buy it at PA (about $25). If your friend does a bit of work on cars, he probably has the proper spring compressor tool as well.

I like to use 6 point sockets on big stuff like suspension parts. Six point impact sockets are cheap and there's usually enough clearance as they are larger than thin wall sockets.

[mrbiglund]

Home Depot has the 174 piece Mechanic's socket set that normally goes for $179.99 for only $79.99 this week.

[Asad_A203]

It's not hard to compress a spring with the proper tool. You can either rent the tool from CT or buy it at PA (about $25). If your friend does a bit of work on cars, he probably has the proper spring compressor tool as well.

I like to use 6 point sockets on big stuff like suspension parts. Six point impact sockets are cheap and there's usually enough clearance as they are larger than thin wall sockets.

Thanks for the advice. Since I am installing coilovers (the front stuts on the G35 are coilovers and the rear are springs) I hopefully will not need to deal with that. That is why I also prefer coilovers since I don't need to deal with a little accident like a spring blowing off, haha. The rear spring are not compressed so it can be done via the jack.

[Asad_A203]

Home Depot has the 174 piece Mechanic's socket set that normally goes for $179.99 for only $79.99 this week.

I will picking this up tommorow! Thanks for the headsup!

[Asad_A203]

Well I did some minor shopping today. I know you guys said no impact wrench, but $50??? I couldn't say no, especially when the reviews were so positive on CT (able to pull the lug nuts off). I believe it was the same wrench someone showed earlier. Here is what else I bought:

Mastercraft 1/2 7.2A Impact Wrench - $50
Mastercraft 1/2 Maximum 38 piece Impact Socket Kit - $60
Quaker State oil filter wrench (they all seemed pretty crappy, might be a return) -$6
Oil pan - $6
Mechanix Gloves - $12
PB Blaser - $12


What I need to pick up tommorow is the socket set from Home Depot, a 1/2 breaker bar and 1/2 torque wrench from Princess Auto, and a carjack/stands. Think I should wait for a sale at CT or pick up the ones from Princess Auto:

http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8057577-jack-floor-2-3/4t

I also checked out the bolts on my vehicle and they are suprisingly rust free (even very little rust on the underbody, I do rarely drive in winter and wash the underbody frequently though). I will only use the impact wrench for removal of nuts (spray with PB blaster still), I will use a Torque wrench for now. I might pick up one of those TQ limiting things at princess auto later on, but I think I better do it by hand first.

[l69norm]

Congrats. Remember to take your time when working on your car and try not to rush

[Asad_A203]

^Thanks, will do. Can't wait to get my jacks so I can get started, haha.

[Si98]

Definately invest in a good torque wrench. Every single bolt in your car has a specific tension to it. Have fun with your car.

[Asad_A203]

Ok guys, ran into a bit of an issue today. I got the Husky socket set from Home Depot and a 1/2 breaker bar from Princess Auto. They were out of stock of the 1/2 TQ Wrench (I asked an individuals working there if they were going to stock it but he ended up referring me to a Torque Multiplier...). Home Depot had one for $90 but wanted input on if Princess Auto one should be alright or should I go for the Husky one at HD.

Also the carjacks were a bit intimidiating. They had a 3000lb Aluminum carjack which was very light for $200 but my car weights 3500lb... Would this jack be sufficient for lifting my front end (not total car)? The 2.5 ton carjack was $229 and weighted probably close to 100lb, not really fun I would imagine to using.

Should I look for another carjack and any personal recommendations?

[Whitedart]

Also the carjacks were a bit intimidiating. They had a 3000lb Aluminum carjack which was very light for $200 but my car weights 3500lb... Would this jack be sufficient for lifting my front end (not total car)? The 2.5 ton carjack was $229 and weighted probably close to 100lb, not really fun I would imagine to using.

Should I look for another carjack and any personal recommendations?

As you point out, you won't be lifting the whole car at one time, it will be front half, rear half, or side, to then place on jack stands.

I never leave my vehicles on the jack, and always lower onto stands after raising. There is too much possibility for a seal to leak on the hydraulic cylinder leaving the vehicle on the jack.

[kbjy11]

there's a 2.5 ton, low profile jack at walmart for $30..

made by Torin, i have it, and it's great. Come with a plastic case too, handy for moving it places.

[Blackjack]

Don't forget to get a OBD II scanner. This thing will pay for itself after using it one or two times. Watch for sales at CT, Princess Auto and Ebay.

[karlb]

I have 2 rolling car jacks. A larger CT one that I hate to lift, but is very stable, and a small light one (says 2,000 lbs, yeah right) that is easy to carry, but doesn't inspire much confidence.

The former is great in the garage where you can just roll it around. I have lugged it a lot of places; it's just not much fun.
The latter is the one I like when I have to do a job someplace else in a hurry. Weighs nothing (= flimsy) and is ok to get the car up onto jackstands. Sometimes you need a couple of short pieces of wood to get the height, since it doesn't go as high.
You are making sure that your rolling jack lifts high enough, right?

And we _never_ work under the car unless it is on ramps, jackstands or on the ground (at least until we get our own 2 post lift :))

Find the best torque wrench you can afford and then spend a bit more and get a better one. Google on how to check it.
Check it. My CT ones haven't been so good lately...not clicking when it should = snapped bolts = lotsa time and $.
I wouldn't say CT, PA, Husky, Sears, etc. are good...acceptable most of the time, but not good.
Don't use your torque wrench to loosen (it's not a breaker bar...you _do_ have a breaker bar, don't you?). Leave your torque wrench set at 0 when you are not using it. BTW your rolling jack handle is a nice extension for your breaker bar.

For wrenches/sockets/etc. I still like CT the best *for my price point*.
Yeah, you can buy a lot better (and pay a lot more), but you can buy a lot worse. CT is local, they're open late and weekends and they're everywhere.
If one breaks (they will), you can get it replaced in any CT, since every CT stocks all the individual sizes. Ditto for Sears/Craftsman. Not so much for Husky/Lowes/etc. Don't bother with Stanley or any other tool where you have to mail away for a replacement.
The old (1960s) Craftsman from my late dad are also nice.

...karl

[ids748]

I think karl might be talking about this jack

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/CreepersJacksStands/PRD~0091054P/Michelin%2B3%253F-ton%2BSpeedy%2BLift%2BJack.jsp

it is worth every penny "on sale" i think i picked it up for 70or80+tax.

this thing paired with 3.5 ton stands is amazing. I've use it so much. so easy to do oil changes brake work etc. Lifts pretty high and is stable.

i will have to agree that it is one heavy BIATCH! Hence why karlb prob has the smaller one as do i.

In terms of tools. I usualy buy CT crapola because of the warantee and I dont use the tools daily. But try finding stuff on sale.

[Asad_A203]

I have 2 rolling car jacks. A larger CT one that I hate to lift, but is very stable, and a small light one (says 2,000 lbs, yeah right) that is easy to carry, but doesn't inspire much confidence.

The former is great in the garage where you can just roll it around. I have lugged it a lot of places; it's just not much fun.
The latter is the one I like when I have to do a job someplace else in a hurry. Weighs nothing (= flimsy) and is ok to get the car up onto jackstands. Sometimes you need a couple of short pieces of wood to get the height, since it doesn't go as high.
You are making sure that your rolling jack lifts high enough, right?

And we _never_ work under the car unless it is on ramps, jackstands or on the ground (at least until we get our own 2 post lift :))

Find the best torque wrench you can afford and then spend a bit more and get a better one. Google on how to check it.
Check it. My CT ones haven't been so good lately...not clicking when it should = snapped bolts = lotsa time and $.
I wouldn't say CT, PA, Husky, Sears, etc. are good...acceptable most of the time, but not good.
Don't use your torque wrench to loosen (it's not a breaker bar...you _do_ have a breaker bar, don't you?). Leave your torque wrench set at 0 when you are not using it. BTW your rolling jack handle is a nice extension for your breaker bar.

For wrenches/sockets/etc. I still like CT the best *for my price point*.
Yeah, you can buy a lot better (and pay a lot more), but you can buy a lot worse. CT is local, they're open late and weekends and they're everywhere.
If one breaks (they will), you can get it replaced in any CT, since every CT stocks all the individual sizes. Ditto for Sears/Craftsman. Not so much for Husky/Lowes/etc. Don't bother with Stanley or any other tool where you have to mail away for a replacement.
The old (1960s) Craftsman from my late dad are also nice.

...karl


Hmm, unfortunately there is not a very large auto selection here in Winnipeg. Princess Auto is as close to a dedicated we have.

Any suggestions for a good TQ wrench online? I do have a breakerbar and I will put it to just a bit no torque setting to keep it accurate when I get my TQ bar.

I think I am going to be getting the aluminum carjack from CT/PA, seems like they are both the same and really seems to be light. I need to be dragging this in winter (non heated garage in Winnipeg...) and can really see it being a pain.

[Asad_A203]

^Edit, the aluminum have only 14 inches maximum height... Hmm, I hate breaking the RFD ethics and buying it at regular price for the one you guys are talking about (19 inches maximum height), lol.

[l69norm]

^Edit, the aluminum have only 14 inches maximum height... Hmm, I hate breaking the RFD ethics and buying it at regular price for the one you guys are talking about (19 inches maximum height), lol.

Car jacks regularly go on sale at PA for under $100. I'd temporarily use the jack that the car came with along with jack stands for now and pick one up on sale later.

Costco also has a steel jack for about $60:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200326626_200326626
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/144957_lg.gif

I'm not a big fan of the aluminum floor jacks. I prefer to use the steel ones as they are more stable due to the heavier weight. It's just a personal preference.

There are 2 things to look for in a jack:
1) it has to be low enough to get underneath the jacking point in the car
2) the lift has to be high enough to get the jack stands in at the working height

This one regularly goes on sale for about $125 at PA. If I were buying an aluminum one, this is what I would get:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8003252-2-1/2-ton-aluminum/steel-floor-jack?keyword=jack
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=8003252.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

This one was $90 a couple of months ago:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8074668-1-1/2-ton-aluminum-floor-jack?keyword=jack
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=8074668.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

[Asad_A203]

Car jacks regularly go on sale at PA for under $100. I'd temporarily use the jack that the car came with along with jack stands for now and pick one up on sale later.

Costco also has a steel jack for about $60:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200326626_200326626
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/144957_lg.gif

I'm not a big fan of the aluminum floor jacks. I prefer to use the steel ones as they are more stable due to the heavier weight. It's just a personal preference.

There are 2 things to look for in a jack:
1) it has to be low enough to get underneath the jacking point in the car
2) the lift has to be high enough to get the jack stands in at the working height

This one regularly goes on sale for about $125 at PA. If I were buying an aluminum one, this is what I would get:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8003252-2-1/2-ton-aluminum/steel-floor-jack?keyword=jack
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=8003252.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

This one was $90 a couple of months ago:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8074668-1-1/2-ton-aluminum-floor-jack?keyword=jack
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=8074668.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

Thanks for the links.

Unfortunately no jack will reach my center jack point as my ground height with my new bumper and lowered will be nill. I will need to be jacking with my OEM jack for the sides, then jacking the middle jack point with my other jack than putting it on jack stands at the factory specified points. The aluminum one, I asked some G35drivers who have the same one and say the lift is quite small and only really appropriate for small work so I think I might need one of the tanks.

I was looking at these speedylift from CT with the jackstands they sell:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/CreepersJacksStands/PRDOVR~0091047P/3-Ton%2BSpeedy%2BLift%2BAuto%2BJack.jsp

(rubber puck mod I think it is called for the saddle to protect the body frame I can do right?)

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/CreepersJacksStands/PRDOVR~0090010P/Motomaster%2BAxle%2BStands.jsp

I don't care about it being speedylift, just being a reliable/sturdy jack.



For torque wrenches, do you guys think the PA is alright? I read horrible reviews on the CT torque wrenches and snapped bolts. I thought TQ wrenches were suppose to slip + click when you reach the torque so you don't over torque? I think the PA are considered crappy too. In that case, would a torque stick be a better bet (I heard they are more accurate) or can anyone possibly link me to a good torque wrench (or where to calibrate them)?


here is one I was looking at:

http://www.sears.ca/gp/product/B001O0GMQG/sr=1-1/qid=1244615920/ref=sr_1_1/181-4486399-1001330?ie=UTF8&searsBrand=core&mqnodeid=396966011

Thanks.

[l69norm]

For rubber protected saddles, you can also get this one. It's about $6 when it's on sale:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/1090014-floor-jack-saddle?keyword=saddle
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=1090014.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

Speed lift is nice to have. Most $100 jacks have this feature. It makes it easier to get the car lifted, especially in your case since you have low ground clearances

As far as torque wrenches go, the cheapie CT and PA torque wrenches are just fine for what you want. You don't need the high accuracy stuff unless you are doing rod or head bolts on modified/high performance engines

[Brandon]

I was looking at these speedylift from CT with the jackstands they sell:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/CreepersJacksStands/PRDOVR~0091047P/3-Ton%2BSpeedy%2BLift%2BAuto%2BJack.jsp

(rubber puck mod I think it is called for the saddle to protect the body frame I can do right?)

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/CreepersJacksStands/PRDOVR~0090010P/Motomaster%2BAxle%2BStands.jsp

I don't care about it being speedylift, just being a reliable/sturdy jack.

I have those jack stands and they work fine, however I haven't used them higher than the lowest notch.

About that jack, I have the 2.5t version right now, and I'm looking for a new jack that has higher lift height. It doesn't give much room to do an oil change. Do you know what the specs are for the 3t you listed?

[freeonboard]

7 pc reversible gear wrench is $45.00 at can tire next week. 58-8574x

maybe you want the hinged ones. love these things. mastercraft digital multimeter is $10

[Asad_A203]

For rubber protected saddles, you can also get this one. It's about $6 when it's on sale:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/1090014-floor-jack-saddle?keyword=saddle
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=1090014.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=

Speed lift is nice to have. Most $100 jacks have this feature. It makes it easier to get the car lifted, especially in your case since you have low ground clearances

As far as torque wrenches go, the cheapie CT and PA torque wrenches are just fine for what you want. You don't need the high accuracy stuff unless you are doing rod or head bolts on modified/high performance engines

Ah ok, good to know. I am going to have a built engine with a turbo kit installed next year (professionally), but I think I will hold on the TQ wrench, if the cheapie Princess Auto TQ wrenches will be alright until then. When that happens, Snap On TQ Wrench is probably the best way to go?

[Asad_A203]

I have those jack stands and they work fine, however I haven't used them higher than the lowest notch.

About that jack, I have the 2.5t version right now, and I'm looking for a new jack that has higher lift height. It doesn't give much room to do an oil change. Do you know what the specs are for the 3t you listed?

Max lift is 19 3/4", haven't been able to find one with a higher lift than this (probably the 3.5T one at Princess Auto).

[l69norm]

Ah ok, good to know. I am going to have a built engine with a turbo kit installed next year (professionally), but I think I will hold on the TQ wrench, if the cheapie Princess Auto TQ wrenches will be alright until then. When that happens, Snap On TQ Wrench is probably the best way to go?

It depends what kind of work you intend to do. Review this thread for Snap-on vs. PA vs. CT:
http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368271

I might suggest a cheapish CT or PA torque wrench for general purpose work and a second cheapish old beam style for critical fasteners (i.e. cylinder head and connecting rod bolts) if you ever get into that type of work.

Most DIY people use TQ wrenches for things like lug nuts and suspension bolts where absolute accuracy is not that critical so a cheapie TQ wrench is fine.

[Asad_A203]

It depends what kind of work you intend to do. Review this thread for Snap-on vs. PA vs. CT:
http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368271

I might suggest a cheapish CT or PA torque wrench for general purpose work and a second cheapish old beam style for critical fasteners (i.e. cylinder head and connecting rod bolts) if you ever get into that type of work.

Most DIY people use TQ wrenches for things like lug nuts and suspension bolts where absolute accuracy is not that critical so a cheapie TQ wrench is fine.

Ah ok, thanks again. Probably last question before I start working on my car, but I have wheel locks so people don't steal my rims. The wheel lock key has a 3/4 and 13/16 socket size to connect to a socket set so I can unlock my rims (the other end is the special adapter), but how would this work with a 1/2 torque wrench? Would I need to purchase an adapter for my torque wrench and would it still be accurate?

[l69norm]

Ah ok, thanks again. Probably last question before I start working on my car, but I have wheel locks so people don't steal my rims. The wheel lock key has a 3/4 and 13/16 socket size to connect to a socket set so I can unlock my rims (the other end is the special adapter), but how would this work with a 1/2 torque wrench? Would I need to purchase an adapter for my torque wrench and would it still be accurate?

The fit would be:
wheel lock < wheel key < 3/4" impact socket < 1/2 extension (optional) < torque wrench

The 1/2" extension just moves the TQ wrench far enough away from the fenders to swing it properly

Something like this:
http://www.finishing.com/118/11894-2.jpg

As for torque sticks being more accurate, it doesn't really matter on wheel lugs that much. You have to remember 95% of the world hand tightens lug nuts with a just the regular spare tire wrench that came with the car. When was the last time you knew of anyone that had a stud snap or a wheel fall off ?

[bob0]

i'd say dont worry too too much about the torque wrench. yes the CT/princess auto ones are probably not too accurate. but unless you want to get a super expensive one and then have it recalibrated every year, you wont get it dead accurate.

i think it's more important that you get the bolts torqued about the same instead of to an exact number. this way one bolt is not stressed more than the others.

[l69norm]

......
This one regularly goes on sale for about $125 at PA. If I were buying an aluminum one, this is what I would get:
http://www.princessauto.com/shop-garage/repair-equipment/lifting-devices/8003252-2-1/2-ton-aluminum/steel-floor-jack?keyword=jack
http://www.princessauto.com/components/com_virtuemart/show_image_in_imgtag.php?filename=8003252.jpg&newxsize=90&newysize=90&fileout=..

This is on sale this week at PA for $159

[Asad_A203]

Thanks, I did see that in the paper.

I got my new set of tools :cheesygri:

Michelin 3 1/2 ton Speedy Lift Jack
Motomaster 2 ton Axle Stand
Mastercraft Maximum 1/2 Torque Wrench


The car jack is a beast in terms of weight compared to the other ones at CT. I am not sure about the axle stands, the max height seems like it might be a bit too low but I will see how it is once I get under my car.

For my axle stand, is it normal for the ratcher thing in the middle to slide out when i flip it over (I know this is not a concern when you are using it. Should pushing in the tab (on the side) fix this up?

[l69norm]

....For my axle stand, is it normal for the ratcher thing in the middle to slide out when i flip it over (I know this is not a concern when you are using it. Should pushing in the tab (on the side) fix this up?

Yes, pressing in the tab stops the saddle from coming out:
http://evergreen-rentals.com/images/jackstands.jpg

[ids748]

Thanks, I did see that in the paper.

I got my new set of tools :cheesygri:

Michelin 3 1/2 ton Speedy Lift Jack
Motomaster 2 ton Axle Stand
Mastercraft Maximum 1/2 Torque Wrench


The car jack is a beast in terms of weight compared to the other ones at CT. I am not sure about the axle stands, the max height seems like it might be a bit too low but I will see how it is once I get under my car.

For my axle stand, is it normal for the ratcher thing in the middle to slide out when i flip it over (I know this is not a concern when you are using it. Should pushing in the tab (on the side) fix this up?


You will NOT BE DISSAPOINTED with those. I HAVE all 3..........well sorta i also have 3.5 axle stands.

with just that jack and stands I was able to swap an engine out of buddys civic!!!!! no hoist!!!!!!!!

Best damn 80bux (jack) i spent! yes the 3.5 22" one same as you!

BE CAREful trying to lift that jack it is too heavy i think i messed my back for a good cpl days lifting it the wrong why while transporting it!

[Asad_A203]

You will NOT BE DISSAPOINTED with those. I HAVE all 3..........well sorta i also have 3.5 axle stands.

with just that jack and stands I was able to swap an engine out of buddys civic!!!!! no hoist!!!!!!!!

Best damn 80bux (jack) i spent! yes the 3.5 22" one same as you!

BE CAREful trying to lift that jack it is too heavy i think i messed my back for a good cpl days lifting it the wrong why while transporting it!

That is definately my concern, I am sure I need to bring this in for winter and just dragging in the garage is a pain. I am not sure if I will return it or not, the other hassle is putting it into a box and bringing it back to CT :lol:. I think I will just live with it. Seems like a sturdy jack, that is for sure.

Other issue I ran into today is this carjack will not fit under my car >:(. I had my spare jack jacking the side (60-75% max height, didn't want to go higher since I was on my inclined driveway, I had the tires choked with wood pieces) while I tried to reach my center jack point, no luck. I will give it a go at 100% with the spare jack and see if I can get my carjack under there when I have room in my garage.
Any suggestions? Low Profile car ramps and then jack it (not sure if this will work when I am lowered) or a trolley jack for the side?

My car isn't even lowered yet too >:(.

With that said, I have not a whole lot room in my garage. Is it safe to be doing this type of work on my inclined driveway (I have ebrake on, and wheels choked for the rear tires)?

[Asad_A203]

Here is a picture of the incline (not the best to gauge, sorry):

http://imusion.net/asad/Beading/IMG_2702.jpg

[Asad_A203]

Ok, scratch the driveway. Just realised how high I need to jack, it is not going to be safe at all.

I was able to jack up my car via jacking the side with my spare jack and then sliding the Michelin underneath the front. Seems like the Michelin took alot more pumps than I would think for a 7k LB car on half the weight of a 3400lb car.

Couple questions here, I can hear fluid dripping when I release the jack. It isn't on the concrete but inside the jack, is that alright ( I am not releasing the jack quick either, it is a slow drop)? Also it says to open the release valve to release air before using but for the like of me, I can't find it on this jack. Anyone with this jack have an idea? Only area I can think of where the big sticker it says "DO NOT SERVICE" :lol:.

Here are some pics, I could squeeze under my car at the lowest setting on my axle stand, when I change the oil, I will raise it a bit more:

http://imusion.net/asad/Beading/jack.jpg

http://imusion.net/asad/Beading/up.jpg



Thanks again guys! Don't be suprised if I have further questions though.