Drywall Ceiling, need advice

[Asad_A203]

Well I have a question for you guys in regards to a drywall ceiling I installed recently.

Before I can describe the issue, I must say I really did mess up this ceiling pretty good, particularly the joint compound stage. I realised I was using a much thicker joint compound (repair) for the ceiling until I pulled up a youtube video on how to do it (only read online articles) and realised it should definately not be as thick as I was laying it and be using a much wider blade. I also thought I could complete the ceiling as a regular wall after this, but found out it would have just been better if I applied mud to the whole ceiling and sanded. I also used fiberglass tape when paper tape would have been much better in my process. Needless to say this was a much needed learning process for me and gladly, the room is small, mainly used for storage, and out of public viewing.

So I have spent the past 2 days sanding the ceiling and although some of the joints are starting to look better, I have real hesitation about how the ceiling will look once paint is applied, the edges still protude and I can definately see it sticking out. So my question is, is there a way I can apply a textured ceiling to paint to at least make the ceiling less hideous or use ceiling tiles? Which would be the best method (room is only 10FT by 8FT) for something like this? For textured ceiling, I was hoping to get something I could apply with a roller and similar to the rest in my house, not sure what exactly it is referred to (see pics), or could this only be applied through an spray gun? For ceiling tiles, could I just get a plain, white, pattern? Or do you think I should just be better off mudding the whole ceiling and sanding again?

Thanks in advance.

Pics:

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/7685/img5040.jpg

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6050/img5041z.jpg

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3654/img5052l.jpg

[deep]

Holy cow that's a lot of mud. No doubt about it. Mud should really be built up in exceedingly fine layers. Sanding should be minimal. But you know that know, so hey - what a great learning experience! :)

Having said that, you can ALWAYS get rid of mud, if you're just willing to put in the time. Grab the mesh style sanding pads, strap it on a pole sander, and do your worst. If it's just two or three 8 foot seams, as it appears to be, it should only take a couple of hours to knock it flat.

Otherwise, yes, you could use a textured approach. Either the traditional version you show in the bottom pic or you could do a California knockdown aproach (http://articles.directorym.net/Putting_Up_Knockdown_Texture_California-r943196-California.html)

Good luck!

[tommyamaral]

Yes that sure is alot of mud,Don't think of alternatives,Relax just sand it all down,Use 80 grit or even 60grit you will bring it back down in a hurry.I hope your not using 20 or 90 out of the bag powder,Use some box mud pre made,Mix it put on really thin layers then use some 120 or 150 grit sandpaper.You will be happy you did this way once its done.Honestly its not hard your just jumping steps.

[venice_it]

I do drywall taping and stucco for a living. Tommy's advice to sand it down and then skim some thin layers of pre-mixed compound over the joints is good. Then some fine sanding.

Applying a texture at this point will do nothing to make the roughness go away. The texture will merely follow the contour of the compound and will show every seam. Don't think that because something is textured it will do miracles and make things disappear.

I would avoid any type of roll-on product and would probably advise a spray textured ceiling by someone that knows what they are doing, provided the surface was prepped well enough. If you are going to do this yourself, at least rent the proper spray equipment.

Once you paint the ceiling or apply a texture, you make repairing it difficult so you don't want to do either until you are satisfied it is good enough.

[Asad_A203]

Thanks for the advice guys. The mud I was using was pre mixed but I think I was using one meant for repairs as it said on the side (lol) than actual joint one. When I found the mud our home builder used, I realised hw much thinner it was and how much better it applied as opposed to the thicker one.

One issue I have is I applied mud underneath the tape in a pretty heavy amount, do you guys recommend me pulling off the tape then (it is fiberglass tape) ad redoing it with the paper tape the builder used for the rest of our basement? The fiberglass tape seemed like it needed a pretty thick layer to completely embed the tape and even the existing layer right now even slightly shows the tape. At this point I think I wil fix my mistake thugh instead of covering up.

[andr3y]

the best way would be of course to take everything off and retape it.

alternatively just sand it down as much as you can with out sanding the tape and then smooth out the edges with some mud. Use wide knife at least 5-6".
so just put another thin layer.

If your mud is too thick, then just add some water to thin it.

Dont use rocksheet 20,45 or 90 for this.

running you knife on the small angle to the wall will help to lay mud smoother. Running it on 45 will remove excess mud.

after you done, paint it once with primer. paint will help you too see drywall deficiencies. Then patch it again.

[Asad_A203]

Thanks for the advice. I am going trying sand it as it appears I did do one of the joints properly with a very thin amount of compound. . I will updae you guys with pics when I finish sanding :o.