Buying a new car via email?

[Ben Jr]

I gotta admit this phenomenon is new to me.

What do you guys do, email the sales persons(say like 10?) with the specs you want and wait for replies? I guess then take the cheapest quote and resend the email and see if anyone beats it?

Anyone have a sample email they've sent? Or possibly the best strategy for going about it?

I've relocated and need another vehicle and can't use my normal car buying methods or contacts.

[najibs]

Some say it works, others say it doesn't. Can't hurt to try it.

[achanna]

You don't buy car via email - you only negotiate the price via email to save you the time and hassle travelling to different dealers - you still need to meet in person, sign papers, deposit etc. to make a final deal

[TT333]

You don't buy car via email - you only negotiate the price via email to save you the time and hassle travelling to different dealers - you still need to meet in person, sign papers, deposit etc. to make a final deal

:eek: Never coulda guessed.

[T-Man]

I"ll give you my perspective as a sales consultant with E-mail quotes etc. I literally almost everyday come in to work and I'd probably get at least 1-3
E-mails usually along the lines of "I'm looking for a 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan 25th Anniversary package" then my favourite line after that "I"m ready to buy, I'm a Serious buyer, what is your best price you can do?"

I have no problem providing quotes, but here is the thing, I'll take the MSRP of the vehicle, subtract the current rebates, then add on all the fees and taxes, I'll then send it showing a line by line break down with the total on the road price. Typically on top of the rebate, there is usually wiggle room to move further on the price. How much room you ask? Well, to find out, I would have to get a manager involved. I used to go to my manager to find out, but very quickly I realized that no matter what number I get from the manager, (the customer assumingly, would take that number and shop it against another dealer and so on). I will then usually never ever hear back from the customer again not even to say "Ok thanks" and worst, I will never ever see them. The only thing I've accomplished then is wasting everybody's time.

So in my experience, those that I provide quotes for, talk about pricing through E-mails only with no phone numbers. 99.9% of the time I will never hear from them again. Lately I have been spending litterally hours each day in front of the computer answering enquiries like what features come with this package, how much would the payments work out to be with and without the DVD or AWD, 72 months or 84 months, can you get the 08 in this colour etc. So while I'm spending my hours doing all this, the other sales people are grabbing up the other customers in the showroom, on the lot. The 0.1% that do show up after all the E-mails going back and forth, they end up with a totally different trim/option/package. In the end like I said, 99.9% I will never hear back from those E-mail enquiries again when I get into pricing.

However, those E-mails where I just focus on keeping it brief, and setting up an appointment when its convenient for the customer, those are the ones where I usually closed.

Achanna is right, you can't buy a car through E-mail, you still have to test drive the vehicle, see all the different features and see if the options you want are the right ones for you. If I could, I'd sit at home in my PJ's selling cars over the internet all day long. If you still want to E-mail shop, then just ask in your E-mail if they can sell it for this much on the road/this monthly payment and see what they say.

[jed]

Excellent response!

[nornet]

T-Man has provide you the straight goods. As I suspected, most email inquiries are price fishing. I've negotiated 2 vehicles over the Internet and the first thing I do is call the sales dept and spend a few minutes talking with a salesman/sales manager. I follow this up with an email. In neither case was the price the lowest but the difference was not that great. I felt comfortable with the sales and service dept. When I went in to sign the papers I dropped into the service dept for a few minutes.

[Ben Jr]

You don't buy car via email - you only negotiate the price via email to save you the time and hassle travelling to different dealers - you still need to meet in person, sign papers, deposit etc. to make a final deal

:lol:
Well I kinda figured that much at least.

I"ll give you my perspective as a sales consultant with E-mail quotes etc. I literally almost everyday come in to work and I'd probably get at least 1-3
E-mails usually along the lines of "I'm looking for a 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan 25th Anniversary package" then my favourite line after that "I"m ready to buy, I'm a Serious buyer, what is your best price you can do?"

I have no problem providing quotes, but here is the thing, I'll take the MSRP of the vehicle, subtract the current rebates, then add on all the fees and taxes, I'll then send it showing a line by line break down with the total on the road price. Typically on top of the rebate, there is usually wiggle room to move further on the price. How much room you ask? Well, to find out, I would have to get a manager involved. I used to go to my manager to find out, but very quickly I realized that no matter what number I get from the manager, (the customer assumingly, would take that number and shop it against another dealer and so on). I will then usually never ever hear back from the customer again not even to say "Ok thanks" and worst, I will never ever see them. The only thing I've accomplished then is wasting everybody's time.

So in my experience, those that I provide quotes for, talk about pricing through E-mails only with no phone numbers. 99.9% of the time I will never hear from them again. Lately I have been spending litterally hours each day in front of the computer answering enquiries like what features come with this package, how much would the payments work out to be with and without the DVD or AWD, 72 months or 84 months, can you get the 08 in this colour etc. So while I'm spending my hours doing all this, the other sales people are grabbing up the other customers in the showroom, on the lot. The 0.1% that do show up after all the E-mails going back and forth, they end up with a totally different trim/option/package. In the end like I said, 99.9% I will never hear back from those E-mail enquiries again when I get into pricing.

However, those E-mails where I just focus on keeping it brief, and setting up an appointment when its convenient for the customer, those are the ones where I usually closed.

Achanna is right, you can't buy a car through E-mail, you still have to test drive the vehicle, see all the different features and see if the options you want are the right ones for you. If I could, I'd sit at home in my PJ's selling cars over the internet all day long. If you still want to E-mail shop, then just ask in your E-mail if they can sell it for this much on the road/this monthly payment and see what they say.

This is kinda along the lines I always thought as well. Thanks for the heads up.

[wally_walrus]

I"ll give you my perspective as a sales consultant with E-mail quotes etc. I literally almost everyday come in to work and I'd probably get at least 1-3
E-mails usually along the lines of "I'm looking for a 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan 25th Anniversary package" then my favourite line after that "I"m ready to buy, I'm a Serious buyer, what is your best price you can do?"

I have no problem providing quotes, but here is the thing, I'll take the MSRP of the vehicle, subtract the current rebates, then add on all the fees and taxes, I'll then send it showing a line by line break down with the total on the road price. Typically on top of the rebate, there is usually wiggle room to move further on the price. How much room you ask? Well, to find out, I would have to get a manager involved. I used to go to my manager to find out, but very quickly I realized that no matter what number I get from the manager, (the customer assumingly, would take that number and shop it against another dealer and so on). I will then usually never ever hear back from the customer again not even to say "Ok thanks" and worst, I will never ever see them. The only thing I've accomplished then is wasting everybody's time.

So in my experience, those that I provide quotes for, talk about pricing through E-mails only with no phone numbers. 99.9% of the time I will never hear from them again. Lately I have been spending litterally hours each day in front of the computer answering enquiries like what features come with this package, how much would the payments work out to be with and without the DVD or AWD, 72 months or 84 months, can you get the 08 in this colour etc. So while I'm spending my hours doing all this, the other sales people are grabbing up the other customers in the showroom, on the lot. The 0.1% that do show up after all the E-mails going back and forth, they end up with a totally different trim/option/package. In the end like I said, 99.9% I will never hear back from those E-mail enquiries again when I get into pricing.

However, those E-mails where I just focus on keeping it brief, and setting up an appointment when its convenient for the customer, those are the ones where I usually closed.

Achanna is right, you can't buy a car through E-mail, you still have to test drive the vehicle, see all the different features and see if the options you want are the right ones for you. If I could, I'd sit at home in my PJ's selling cars over the internet all day long. If you still want to E-mail shop, then just ask in your E-mail if they can sell it for this much on the road/this monthly payment and see what they say.


T-Man,
I agree that MOST people who request email quotes are just "window shopping" and this wastes a lot of your time. However you can't blame people who are really serious about buying, and try to save time and money by using the email / phone instead of visiting multiple showrooms. Some may have bad memories about car shopping, and just try to stay out of it as much as possible. Now, since you offered your thoughts on this, can I ask what can someone - who's REALLY serious about buying - do to prove it (other than coming into the showroom)? I won't hide I was planning to use the same technique to get a few quotes, and then make dealers compete against each other to get the best price. Do you see anything wrong with this? What can I make my message look like, to show that I AM GOING to buy if the price is right?

Thanks

[THINKPADT61]

That's what I did with my 09 Vibe...

I email out emails to dealer with my contact info, majority of them call me back with a price...

It work out very well... way cheaper than buying it local and the car had only 12kms upon pick up! Can't beat that...

Sold me old car on monday, pick up my new car saturday... that's just sweet!

[T-Man]

T-Man,
I agree that MOST people who request email quotes are just "window shopping" and this wastes a lot of your time. However you can't blame people who are really serious about buying, and try to save time and money by using the email / phone instead of visiting multiple showrooms. Some may have bad memories about car shopping, and just try to stay out of it as much as possible. Now, since you offered your thoughts on this, can I ask what can someone - who's REALLY serious about buying - do to prove it (other than coming into the showroom)? I won't hide I was planning to use the same technique to get a few quotes, and then make dealers compete against each other to get the best price. Do you see anything wrong with this? What can I make my message look like, to show that I AM GOING to buy if the price is right?

Thanks

Hi Wally,

I can understand from your point of view too, (I'm a shopper myself), of course theres nothing wrong with shopping around to try to save as much money as possible (most of us do it, including me). You're right, its the other majority or say 90% of the "window shoppers" that ruin it for the 10% of the serious buyers out there.

You have no idea how many times, I've printed out an E-mail from a customer, and run into my manager's office, being all excited and I'd start by "I got this guy...he wants to buy...." So, after "bugging", "prodding", to get "the best price" I'd get back to my customer with the information, and then..... I'd never ever hear back from them again.

I've learn that customers are getting more and more creative of what they say or how they word their E-mails to sound convincing, or even on the phone, alot of customers say all pretty much everything a commission sales person wants to hear. So, when my managers checks in with me on the "status" of the "Mr. Ready to buy". What do I tell them?, when the truth is, they haven't returned my phone call, or replied to my follow up E-mail, I'd lose credibility and of course, waste of everybody's time.

Here's another scenario where "the window shoppers" ruins it for the serious buyers like yourself.

I'd get an E-mail/phone call from "Mr. Customer", he says,

"I can buy the 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT from Dealership A for $21,000K on the road",
Shopper: "Can you beat it?"
Me: "If I can beat it, will you come in and finish the deal with me?"
Shopper: "Yes, how much can you beat it by?"
Me: "How much do I have to beat it by to get you to come in?"
Shopper: "Well, I don't know, go see what you can do, I'll wait"
Me: "Sure, I can go to my manager and he'll just ask me to ask you the same thing, how much do you want off?"
Shopper: "Oh ok, another $500 off, and I'll come in"
Me: (Thinking great, getting my hopes up). "Ok, so you'll for sure come in if I can convince my manager for another $500 off?"
Shopper: "Yes, I'll can come in tonight/tomorrow, go see if you can do it and get back to me"
Me: "OK, I'll call/E-mail you back shortly"

Then I run off to the manager once again with "Boss, I got this guy, he's wants to buy....", "He just wants another $500 off, then he'll come in".

The manager of course have heard all this before, but say he gives in to me because I can be very persitant when working my boss, finally gives the authorization to do $20,500 on the road (with only my words, that I got a serious buyer). I then call/E-mail my customer back, with the good news and....!.

Yep!, you guess it, 99% of the time I'd never hear back from them again. So again, I just wasted everybody's time and of course the saleperson loses credibility.

But I can also look at it from your point of view too, you have family, kids, working full-time, other obligations etc which may leave you very little time to visit showrooms thats why we sales people often work past our shift, or come in on our days off to accomodate you, and yes we have families, obligations too :cheesygri

Some facts:

1) Every dealership (within the same province/region) have the exact same factory invoice/Same MSRP. No, the factories does not sell the same vehicle to Dealership A cheaper then Dealership B. If you hear lines like "We have lower overhead costs so therefore we can sell it cheaper" Thats just it, a sales line. If you E-mail 10 Dealerships within the GTA the same requirements, your quote should be very close across the board assuming you do it all within the same day.

2) All factory incentives/rebates are the same. Yes, they can change at any time. So the rebates would be reimbursed the same from Dealership A to B to C. There are sometimes exception to this rule, especially with Chrysler Dealerships, like last month, Chrysler was asking its Dealers to buy more inventory then the dealers needed/had room for. But, the owner went ahead and bought more inventory then we needed but in return the factory gave us about $40,000 worth of coupons where we could apply an extra 1K per deal. As a result, in January our numbers of units sold almost doubled our December numbers. So this month, the owner is doing the same thing so we got the coupons again.

Here are my tips:

1) You know exactly what you want.
When E-mailing, please at least include a Name and phone number, that at least gives the impression that "you're serious", and that you're a human being. Most of the E-mails I get from people, they do not include a phone number and when I ask for it, its sometimes ignored, or I don't hear back from them. In which case, I know to move on to the next E-mail. The phone number is not so I can "pressure" or try to sell the vehicle over the phone, its so I know exactly what vehicle you want or I can ask you the right questions over the phone rather then write back and fourth different questions, and sometimes taking severals days back and fourth what a 5 mins phone call could accomplished.

I'll give you perfectly good example of a recent E-mail I got:

"I"m looking for an 08/09 Truck, whats the best price you can do?"

How can I can even attempt to provide a quote for this person? Is he looking for short box, long box, 1500, 2500, maybe even a 3500, Gas, Diesel, Hemi Engine, 4.7L Engine, Auto, Manual, Dakota perhaps? 4x4 only or 4x2 is fine? All these factors play a role in the price.

So I wrote back to him, thanking him for contacting me, and told him I would love to give him the information he wants over the phone, asked him to call me or provide me a number I can reach him at. The guy never wrote back or called me. "Next!"

Now imagine I decided to spend the next 3-4 hours or so researching the various trims/options/package of each model year, and then going to my boss to get the "best price", I wouldn't hear back from him anyways. Now I just wasted half my day. Now imagined in my shoes, you get a few E-mails per day. I have to balance my time with E-mail leads VS amount of people who are physically in the showroom who are in a position to do something.

2) If you insist on "buying a car over the phone" without having to vist the showroom "to save time".

Shopper: "Ok, I'll buy the Caliber right now for $20,000 on the road"
Me: "OK, if I can get you that number, you'll come in and sign all the paper?"
Shopper: "yes, but I don't want to come in and find out its a different number"
Me: "I understand, so you're making an offer over the phone, and if I can convince my manager of that then we have a deal?"
Shopper: "Absolutely, so go talk to your boss and get back to me"

At this point, this is where I distinguish the real serious buyers from the window shoppers.

Me: "OK, no problem, Please give me your correct spelling of your last name and first name, I'm going to also need your credit card information, Visa or Mastercard, with the expiry date. I will then go to my manager and if I can get that exact number you want, I'm going to put a deposit on it" and then I wait for their reaction:-0

Shopper A (lets pretend thats you Wally, and you're serious): "Ok no problem, here is the information.....",
Me: "Ok great, thanks, now wish me luck!"

Me: "I did it, I convinced my manager to accept your offer"
Wally: "Thank you very much, I'll see you at 5pm today"

Believe it or not, I've sold a couple vehicles this way with shoppers like you, the serious buyers would go ahead and allow me to take the deposit over the phone if I can get that number they want even if its a lowball offer.

Shopper B (The window shopper): Credit card? No no, just see if you can do $20K on the road and let me know.

Now remember the credibility issue from earlier if I run off to the manager, with nothing more then the words of "I got this guy and he wants to buy..."?

From the dealership's point of view its no different for you to make an offer in person then having a deposit taken if accepted, or making an offer over the phone and if accepted, a deposit taken as well.

Another tip you can do, is many people are aware of CCC or APA membership or other similiar services? That gives you the factory dealer cost plus the current incentives at the time. In my limited experience with CCC customers, they've shown me their report, and comparing it to the dealer cost information my managers have, the numbers are accurate right down to the dollar. With that information, make an offer by E-mail/call in to any dealership and if its a reasonable offer, it should be accepted, then go in and finish the deal with that dealership.

I've also on occasion, in person, my managers have allowed me to show the customer the dealership invoice so they know what our cost is and then they can make a reasonable offer that way too.

Hope that helps!;)

[zivan56]

I bought my new car via e-mail mostly. The dealer had the grammar skills of a 10 year old gamer...but I told him what I wanted, went back and forth on the price a couple times, he said yes, and then I phoned him up once I saw he wasn't ********ting me. Gave deposit via email and came and picked up the car the following weekend. I must say, way better than going to a dozen dealers and haggling at every single one.

[wally_walrus]

Hi Wally,

I can understand from your point of view too, (I'm a shopper myself), of course theres nothing wrong with shopping around to try to save as much money as possible (most of us do it, including me). You're right, its the other majority or say 90% of the "window shoppers" that ruin it for the 10% of the serious buyers out there.

...

Hope that helps!;)


Really appreciate sharing your thoughts here... Few assumptions for everything above to work:


1. Both customer and salesman be upfront and honest
2. No pressure at all to complete the sale


I'd sure want to be considered a serious buyer, however make it clear I cannot commit to buy until I'm convinced I got the best price. Providing the credit card info would impede my ability to negotiate further with other dealers (effectively making it a done deal). Like I mentioned previously, my intention is to try and get the BEST possible price by having dealers bid against each other.

Therefore, is there another way you suggest I can prove my serious intentions, without having to commit and buy on the spot?

Also, is it possible that some dealers are willing to sell at a loss to meet monthly / quarterly / yearly quotas (with the benefit of better factory-to-dealer incentives)? Have you ever seen / heard of this?

Thanks again,

[Ben Jr]

I've received a quote from a dealership already, and along the lines of T-Man's post, which is completely helpful, I don't plan on resending out emails to the same dealers asking if they can beat it.

I think the best option would be to wait for a few more quotes to come in and walk into the dealership with the printouts and have them beat those prices while holding the deposit in hand.

Of course now that I'm talking dollars and cents the wife is feeling queasy and wouldn't mind looking at other vehicles....so even though I thought we were gung ho on buying her Fusion a few others have come into the picture that are not even in the same class. She really misses the SUV...

[m4gician]

I've received a quote from a dealership already, and along the lines of T-Man's post, which is completely helpful, I don't plan on resending out emails to the same dealers asking if they can beat it.

I think the best option would be to wait for a few more quotes to come in and walk into the dealership with the printouts and have them beat those prices while holding the deposit in hand.

Of course now that I'm talking dollars and cents the wife is feeling queasy and wouldn't mind looking at other vehicles....so even though I thought we were gung ho on buying her Fusion a few others have come into the picture that are not even in the same class. She really misses the SUV...

While I like your honesty and good attitude, you wouldn't be doing your duty as a smart shopper if you didn't shop around to different dealerships.

[mpsrent]

I just completed a car purchase transaction via email last week and it was the best buying experience I've ever had.

Here are some key points for consideration:
* Don't waste the sales representative's time. Know what you are buying and make sure in advance that they offer the vehicle. Many companies even show you dealer new car inventory.
*Keep your transaction clean. If you have special financing needs or a difficult trade-in, you can't negotiate via email. I was a cash buyer with no trade.
*Separate car option research from price quotations. Don't send an email asking for the best price together with a request for towing specs, radio features and fuel economy.
* Do your car price research prior to contacting the dealership, don't expect the dealership to do the research for you. Use Car Cost Canada or similar services to determine the cost of the car and any current incentives.
*Make a fair and reasonable offer. Don't expect the dealer to make you a "steal of a deal" offer. You need to present the dealer with your offer for their consideration. Give the sales rep something to work with and make sure that your offer is entirely clear e.g. this price inclusive of all costs and fees plus gst, pst, fuel tax, air tax and license. No other fees.
*Most importantly, determine a price range that you are prepared to accept. Don't play one dealer against another as that can backfire on you and that's not fair practice. If a dealer provides you with a price in your range and you are happy with the deal and dealer, buy the car. Don't take the offer to another dealer. They may just play with you and then try to upsell you after you dump off the original dealer with a fair offer.

In my case, I knew exactly the car and options that I wanted and the colours that I would consider. I knew the dealer cost and all incentives. My deal was not complicated by financing or a trade in. I was able to research the vehicles and to check dealer inventory on line. I contacted a select list of dealers with an email that contained an offer for a specific vehicle. The first dealer that accepted my offer got the deal. I made it clear that I would accept the deal as long as the contract was exactly as stated in the email. I was as true to my word as they were to their word. Neither party played any tricks and the sales transaction was completed in their dealership in less than 10 minutes.

Your email should be clear and concise. Have another party read it prior to sending to make sure that it makes sense.

Happy shopping and good luck.

As a sidenote, keep a human or personal side to email shopping. Provide the sales representative with a name. Don't hide behind an alias or computer name. Let them know that you are real.

[AGR-1]

In most instances a "serious" customer/prospect expects a "better price" with an online inquiry. Especially if the customer/prospect has done his "due diligence" knows exactly what he wants, the MSRP, the various rebates, and the various lease or finance incentives.

If a customer does his due diligence, and make an online contact he expects a better "online price" than a showroom price. The customer expects to save time, not have to endure the "let me go see the manager" routine, or give me a deposit before I give you a price routine.

Customers that are looking for the best price on the premise that they are cash buyers are few and far between, most customers will either finance or lease, they all have a vehicle, its either a lease return or a trade in, or they will sell it themselves.

It takes a few seconds to scan a sales contract and send as an e-mail attachment for a customer to sign.

The give me your best price e-mail inquiry because I am also e-mailing another 10 dealers, is not very serious, and will usually not generate a serious response to initiate a transaction.

The dealer can e-mail photos of the actual car that you are considering to buy or lease, the customer can e-mail photos of his trade in.

The savvy customer will not include a phone number, since he prefers to do business online, and does not want to get a phone call.

The customer needs to know how to make a serious online inquiry that will generate a serious online response from a dealer.

[wally_walrus]

I just completed a car purchase transaction via email last week and it was the best buying experience I've ever had.

Here are some key points for consideration:
* Don't waste the sales representative's time. Know what you are buying and make sure in advance that they offer the vehicle. Many companies even show you dealer new car inventory.
*Keep your transaction clean. If you have special financing needs or a difficult trade-in, you can't negotiate via email. I was a cash buyer with no trade.
*Separate car option research from price quotations. Don't send an email asking for the best price together with a request for towing specs, radio features and fuel economy.
* Do your car price research prior to contacting the dealership, don't expect the dealership to do the research for you. Use Car Cost Canada or similar services to determine the cost of the car and any current incentives.

Agree with all the above


*Make a fair and reasonable offer. Don't expect the dealer to make you a "steal of a deal" offer. You need to present the dealer with your offer for their consideration. Give the sales rep something to work with and make sure that your offer is entirely clear e.g. this price inclusive of all costs and fees plus gst, pst, fuel tax, air tax and license. No other fees.



I'd hesitate to start with my offer. Negotiating is a two-way process, and as much as I want to buy, the dealer also wants to sell. As such, I'm expecting him (rather than me) to come up with an offer.



*Most importantly, determine a price range that you are prepared to accept. Don't play one dealer against another as that can backfire on you and that's not fair practice. If a dealer provides you with a price in your range and you are happy with the deal and dealer, buy the car. Don't take the offer to another dealer. They may just play with you and then try to upsell you after you dump off the original dealer with a fair offer.



What's wrong with trying to get a better price elsewhere? As long as I'm upfront about it, I don't see why dealers can jack up the prices when cars are in high demand while we can't make them compete against each other when demand is lower



In my case, I knew exactly the car and options that I wanted and the colours that I would consider. I knew the dealer cost and all incentives. My deal was not complicated by financing or a trade in. I was able to research the vehicles and to check dealer inventory on line. I contacted a select list of dealers with an email that contained an offer for a specific vehicle. The first dealer that accepted my offer got the deal. I made it clear that I would accept the deal as long as the contract was exactly as stated in the email. I was as true to my word as they were to their word. Neither party played any tricks and the sales transaction was completed in their dealership in less than 10 minutes.

Your email should be clear and concise. Have another party read it prior to sending to make sure that it makes sense.

Happy shopping and good luck.

As a sidenote, keep a human or personal side to email shopping. Provide the sales representative with a name. Don't hide behind an alias or computer name. Let them know that you are real.


Would you mind sharing your email here (of course personal details removed)?


Thanks in advance

[Jeff-TheBiz]

I would say 90% of my sales are done much like this.

Often the first time I meet the client face to face is when they come to pick up their car. :)

[mpsrent]

Would you mind sharing your email here (of course personal details removed)?

Thanks in advance

In my case I was dealing with a specific non current 2008 model that I found at a number of dealers across the GTA. I used current 2009 incentives and finance programs on the same model to my advantage so my emails were rather product specific.

What I focused on was the following:

*I'm a cash buyer, no trade and no need to arrange financing. (big plus, easy sale).
*I quoted the 2009 programs and the fact that the finance incentive was worth at least $2,500 to $3,000 in interest savings to a prospective buyer. This part is important as most buyers focus on dealer financing and subvented interest rates as part of their car buying decision. As such, current model cars with manufacturer incentives are far more attractive to buyers than last year's model with no program financing. This is why even some popular non current cars are still sitting on dealer lots. Non currents aren't always dogs, it just means the current deals make them least attractive. This is why dealers may bend large to move them. Reality is that subvented interest rates come at a cost, and many times a large cash incentive with bank financing may be a better option than low rates.
*I quoted the 2008 dealer cost plus the end of model year rebate to the dealer.
*I picked my price (which was far less than dealer cost less model year rebate) that I was prepared to pay to make a non current car attractive.

As I was offering to buy the car at a price whereby a dealer was losing money to move a model and gain cash flow, it was my move to name the price. I doubt dealers want to offer cars at a loss, but to each their own on negotiating styles. If you want to buy a car at cost or more, let the dealer name the price. If you want a real bargin at less than cost, you may need to name the price. I got over $9k off a $30k car. Don't assume that dealers won't sell a car at a loss, they will. Like any retailer, sometimes they must take their lumps.

Another point to consider about non current cars. If the model you like really hasn't changed much since last year, consider a non current. If you intend to keep the car for 4 years or more there can be a real benefit. The difference between a used 4 year and 5 year identical model at wholesale may only be as little as $1k. If the savings at new is $3k or $4k, you can be far further ahead by buying the non current with full warranty. Food for thought.

As I said, good luck. I hope this helps someone.

[Ben Jr]

As it turns out an old contact I had at a government sales program(it's US variant, so no good for the majority) that can actually sell me a car here in Florida. I, of course, neglected to mention my location in the originating topic, but it really doesn't matter as it doesn't change anything that's been posted.
How I miss the whiteness of Canada this time of year...:razz:

In a strange anomaly he gave me quotes on two he has in inventory(no 2008's, plenty of 2009's, and a 2007 model :confused:):

2007 Ford Fusion SEL I4, manual 5 speed
Price Component Invoice MSRP
Base Price $17,961.00 $19,450.00
Total Options -$4,417.00 $1,724.00 ... sunroof, spoiler
Vehicle Subtotal $13,544.00 $21,174.00
Advert/Adjustments $0.00 $0.00
Destination Charge $725.00 $725.00
TOTAL VEHICLE PRICE $14,269.00 $21,899.00

2009 Ford Fusion SE I4, auto 5 speed
Price Component Invoice MSRP
Base Price $18,542.00 $20,175.00
Total Options -$2,105.00 $1,509.00...automatic tranny
Vehicle Subtotal $16,437.00 $21,684.00
Advert/Adjustments $0.00 $0.00
Destination Charge $725.00 $725.00
TOTAL VEHICLE PRICE $17,162.00 $22,409.00

With this program there is no haggling, that's the final price.
Add applicable state tax/reg/tags etc...

To me it really doesn't make any sense buying 2 model years old even if it is 3k cheaper...wish he had an '08 for comparison sake, but I'd say somewhere in the middle.

In the same light...just to show up the wife I got a quote on a 2009 Cherokee Laredo..sure you can have the SUV its about 10k more...


Price Component Invoice MSRP
Base Price $27,659.00 $30,150.00
Total Options -$4,966.00 $634.00
Vehicle Subtotal $22,693.00 $30,784.00
Advert/Adjustments $0.00 $0.00
Destination Charge $780.00 $780.00
TOTAL VEHICLE PRICE $23,473.00 $31,564.00

[Ben Jr]

In my case I was dealing with a specific non current 2008 model that I found at a number of dealers across the GTA. I used current 2009 incentives and finance programs on the same model to my advantage so my emails were rather product specific.

What I focused on was the following:

*I'm a cash buyer, no trade and no need to arrange financing. (big plus, easy sale).
*I quoted the 2009 programs and the fact that the finance incentive was worth at least $2,500 to $3,000 in interest savings to a prospective buyer. This part is important as most buyers focus on dealer financing and subvented interest rates as part of their car buying decision. As such, current model cars with manufacturer incentives are far more attractive to buyers than last year's model with no program financing. This is why even some popular non current cars are still sitting on dealer lots. Non currents aren't always dogs, it just means the current deals make them least attractive. This is why dealers may bend large to move them. Reality is that subvented interest rates come at a cost, and many times a large cash incentive with bank financing may be a better option than low rates.
*I quoted the 2008 dealer cost plus the end of model year rebate to the dealer.
*I picked my price (which was far less than dealer cost less model year rebate) that I was prepared to pay to make a non current car attractive.

As I was offering to buy the car at a price whereby a dealer was losing money to move a model and gain cash flow, it was my move to name the price. I doubt dealers want to offer cars at a loss, but to each their own on negotiating styles. If you want to buy a car at cost or more, let the dealer name the price. If you want a real bargin at less than cost, you may need to name the price. I got over $9k off a $30k car. Don't assume that dealers won't sell a car at a loss, they will. Like any retailer, sometimes they must take their lumps.

Another point to consider about non current cars. If the model you like really hasn't changed much since last year, consider a non current. If you intend to keep the car for 4 years or more there can be a real benefit. The difference between a used 4 year and 5 year identical model at wholesale may only be as little as $1k. If the savings at new is $3k or $4k, you can be far further ahead by buying the non current with full warranty. Food for thought.

As I said, good luck. I hope this helps someone.

As someone posted earlier, I don't think I want to show my hand just yet by naming a price I'm willing to pay. I find that obligation goes to the dealership. When I first look at a car I actually don't talk price to the salesman. I'll go over whichever details/options/packages I'm looking for, what kind of incentives and go from there. I'll go home and generally by the time the followup call comes in the next few days, I'm fully educated in what I think a good deal on that car is.

Like you said, simply doing your research will pay huge dividends in savings and getting the dealership to take you seriously. Don't be emailing for the best price and ask about power door locks...of course I'm saying this and I'm falling into the 99% of the emailers simply because I've already emailed about pricing and one of us is getting cold feet which isn't the time as we need a car in a matter of weeks.

[mpsrent]

In my professional capacity people count on me and expect me to make tough decisions daily. I suppose that is what I am getting at when I suggest you may need to name your price. At some point you need to cut the chase and all the $100 or $200 jumps or decreases in offers. Someone needs to brake the deadlock and the best way to do it is with a real offer that you will stand behind.

So what I am suggesting is that you shouldn't be afraid to name your final offer. I did at far less than dealer cost ( I stress - far!) for a non current model and it worked for me. Sure, negotiate but at some point someone has to call the other person's bluff. Name your price and see if they will go for it. Don't be unrealistic or insulting, just be fair. It doesn't hurt to try.

On a personal note, for this guy the old way of buying cars is gone. Never again. I intend to negotiate, negotiate, negotiate and to name my price. Again, good luck with your purchase.