Things to do on a brand new vehicule (Rustproof, Wax, etc)

[SpykeYs]

Hi Folks,

I have purchased a brand new Ford Escape 2009. What do you guys suggest I do on it ?

- Rustproof is something i'll get down at Antirouille Metropolitain (Like Krown)

- I'd like to give it a good wax. Which wax do you guys suggest ?

- I'll buy some Mud Flap

Anything else ?

Thanks!

[mr_raider]

I'll be honest with you, I don't get rustproofing done for the first 3 years while it's under corrosion warranty. I don't want troubles with the dealer if surface rust does appear in warranty since Metropolitan drills holes in the frame.

[fidog]

There's a thread in this forum created by a professional detailer. If you want my amateur version, here it is:

My car wash/maintenance arsenal:


Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and Conditioner (weekly)

Meguiars NXT 2.0 Wax (monthly, weather permitting)

Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover (as needed)

Aerospace 303 for cleaning/conditioning the interior dash door panels, etc. (weekly if possible) - contains UV protectant

As for cleaning the glass, there's Stoner Invisible Glass selling cheap at Costco (http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639347&highlight=stoner), but the jury is still out on that one; it does an amazing job at cleaning glass but I (among a few others in this forum) suspect that on cool mornings when there's dew on the windshield, it leaves a haze (http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7478475&postcount=78) which makes it very difficult to see when driving. I'm still trying to see if there's a workaround...it really is an excellent glass cleaner...except for this "hiccup".

Use only the softest cloth (microfibre is great) to clean mirrors and speedometer, CD player display – they get scratched easily.

Use the two-bucket system where you rinse your wash mitt before dipping it in the soapy water again (to wash away dirt particles that could scratch your paint).

Get all-weather mats before your OEM ones get dirty (assuming you don't have them yet). Vacuum seats and carpet when you can.

Keep a bottle of tap water and tissues in your trunk for bird bombs. Try to wash it off right away...I hear they're nasty and very acidic.

ScotchGuard your fabric (unless you have leather seats). If possible, let the fumes out for about 24 hours after applying it.

If someone eats in your car, shoot their kneecaps. Okay, that's too harsh...maybe just one kneecap. Both if they actually spill something.

[hightech]

There's a thread in this forum created by a professional detailer. If you want my amateur version, here it is:

My car wash/maintenance arsenal:


Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and Conditioner (weekly)

Meguiars NXT 2.0 Wax (monthly, weather permitting)

Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover (as needed)

Aerospace 303 for cleaning/conditioning the interior dash door panels, etc. (weekly if possible) - contains UV protectant

As for cleaning the glass, there's Stoner Invisible Glass selling cheap at Costco (http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639347&highlight=stoner), but the jury is still out on that one; it does an amazing job at cleaning glass but I (among a few others in this forum) suspect that on cool mornings when there's dew on the windshield, it leaves a haze (http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7478475&postcount=78) which makes it very difficult to see when driving. I'm still trying to see if there's a workaround...it really is an excellent glass cleaner...except for this "hiccup".

Use only the softest cloth (microfibre is great) to clean mirrors and speedometer, CD player display – they get scratched easily.

Use the two-bucket system where you rinse your wash mitt before dipping it in the soapy water again (to wash away dirt particles that could scratch your paint).

Get all-weather mats before your OEM ones get dirty (assuming you don't have them yet). Vacuum seats and carpet when you can.

Keep a bottle of tap water and tissues in your trunk for bird bombs. Try to wash it off right away...I hear they're nasty and very acidic.

ScotchGuard your fabric (unless you have leather seats). If possible, let the fumes out for about 24 hours after applying it.

If someone eats in your car, shoot their kneecaps. Okay, that's too harsh...maybe just one kneecap. Both if they actually spill something.


You raise many good points and suggestions, but the question should be if the original poster plans on waxing their own car? Some people have the time and interest to do this, others would rather get it done professionally.

I believe that the more often you wax the car, the better the paint is protected. Getting it detailed annually or every couple years, is better protection then a one time treatment (with high profit margins).

[fidog]

Did you at least like my suggestion about the kneecaps? :)

In all seriousness, I see what you mean. I would discourage the OP from getting the single application paint protection. Have it waxed or do it yourself. Get a few layers in before the winter.

[Qube]

Rain-x. Rain-x. Rain-x.

[untuned]

As for cleaning the glass, there's Stoner Invisible Glass selling cheap at Costco (http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639347&highlight=stoner), but the jury is still out on that one; it does an amazing job at cleaning glass but I (among a few others in this forum) suspect that on cool mornings when there's dew on the windshield, it leaves a haze (http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7478475&postcount=78) which makes it very difficult to see when driving. I'm still trying to see if there's a workaround...it really is an excellent glass cleaner...except for this "hiccup".



have you try using new paper to clean your windows? give it a try

[untuned]

Hi Folks,

I have purchased a brand new Ford Escape 2009. What do you guys suggest I do on it ?

- Rustproof is something i'll get down at Antirouille Metropolitain (Like Krown)

- I'd like to give it a good wax. Which wax do you guys suggest ?

- I'll buy some Mud Flap

Anything else ?

Thanks!

I'm not a big fan of krown because it's oil base, and it leaks everywhere. and say byebye to all your rubber seals. I like using a rubberize undercoating and a water base roof proofer for the doors. something like pro-tect rust proofing.

[hOrnizuka]

Do you really need rustproof for new car? According to APA modern car only need rustproof when the it is about 6 or 7 years old.

[hotweiss]

Rain-x. Rain-x. Rain-x.

I've tried Rain-x, but i creates too much glare at night. I will never touch it again.

[radeonboy]

Do you really need rustproof for new car? According to APA modern car only need rustproof when the it is about 6 or 7 years old.

I don't think we need it, regardless the car is gonna rust anyway eventually. But some people believe otherwise.

BTW the professional detailing investment is well worth it. GTAINDETAIL.COM is one I would recommend since I know the work Kevin does.

But Kaval below does great work too!

[kvilkhu]

I would HIGHLY recommend, not because I'm a professional detailer, but because I've seen what a detail can do on a new car, getting a new car prep done on your vehicle. This includes a paint decontamination, high speed polish, and a high quality wax or synthetic sealant.

Also have your interior panels dressed and carpets scotch guarded. Your car sits for a quite a while before being delivered and needs a good coat of UV protectant. This holds the same for leather seats.

For the Invisible Glass users, you MUST use a microfiber towel to obtain full utility out of this product. If it's streaking, you need to do another application. Invisible Glass is not a one-time cleaner. If your glass is very dirty, you have to clean it more than once. On a new car, one cleaning should be enough. Use a low-nap (low level of plushness) microfiber towel and you're good to go.

Here's a detail I performed on a brand new (well, 2 week old) vehicle. You can see the difference made with a proper detail and the benefits of getting this done. I tell all my clients when buying a new car to turn down the dealership prep and have a professional detail the car (removing shipping plastics, glue residue, etc).

2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 Detail (http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-details-before-after/111802-make-shine-5-coats-opti-seal-cwp-mazdaspeed3-wet.html)

Oil-based rust proofing is fine. The oil is able to reach in places that need protecting. Sure it leaks, but it is a very small price (if any) to pay for having your car protected.

[kvilkhu]

Do you really need rustproof for new car? According to APA modern car only need rustproof when the it is about 6 or 7 years old.

Unfortunately this is not true. Have a look at the 2003-2004 (and 05) Mazdas. They rust VERY easily.

[Qube]

I've tried Rain-x, but i creates too much glare at night. I will never touch it again.

Are you sure your application was sound? Usually applied twice a year with no ill effects on all cars I've had. This includes a Focus, 535, 540, 135, 128, Passat, Golf... the 128 being a convertible too... no more glare than usual. The only time I had glare was in my first car... the Golf, when I Armor-All the dash. Stupid :)

Either way, unless the glare is extreme, having it for just one rainfall will outweigh the costs. Again, unless you live in Hawaii or Cali :)

[fidog]

have you try using new paper to clean your windows? give it a try

Yes, I've been using newspaper, ones with minimal ink/colour print on it. I forgot to mention that I clean my wiper blades too while I'm at it.

Last Sunday I tried using the 50/50 vinegar/water solution - this morning we finally had some dew on the cars and I have to say that it seems to be working much better for me than Invisible Glass. This said, I will definitely continue using IG on my other windows. When summer returns, I will use it on my windshield again.

[torrento]

for a brand new car, u should also consider getting 3M or similar car bra..

[Pete_Coach]

Rain-x. Rain-x. Rain-x.
Why, why, why?
Such mixed reviews on this product that I would stay away from it or anything that puts a film on my windshield.
I'm not a big fan of krown because it's oil base, and it leaks everywhere. and say byebye to all your rubber seals. I like using a rubberize undercoating and a water base roof proofer for the doors. something like pro-tect rust proofing.
Actually a rubberized undercoating just adds a layer over the metal and in fact will keep moisture in. The underbody of your vehicle is subjected to so much abuse and small penetration or cuts just allow moisture in. Rubberized undercoatings used to be sold as a noise barrier and after that ceased top be an issue on newer cars, their sales dropped and they tried to sell it as a rust proofing product. Many of the rubber undercoating companies have gone out of business.
I dispute your claim "say byebye to all your rubber seals". There is no evidence of that at all. A myth, perpetuated.

[kvilkhu]

Why, why, why?
Such mixed reviews on this product that I would stay away from it or anything that puts a film on my windshield.

Actually a rubberized undercoating just adds a layer over the metal and in fact will keep moisture in. The underbody of your vehicle is subjected to so much abuse and small penetration or cuts just allow moisture in. Rubberized undercoatings used to be sold as a noise barrier and after that ceased top be an issue on newer cars, their sales dropped and they tried to sell it as a rust proofing product. Many of the rubber undercoating companies have gone out of business.
I dispute your claim "say byebye to all your rubber seals". There is no evidence of that at all. A myth, perpetuated.

+1!!!!!!!!!

[SpykeYs]

Hi all,

There aren't many company in Gatineau doing detailing from what I can see. There is one offering the following:

Inside cleaning with Inner-Clean®

Outside cleaning with Renu-A-Shine®

Cloth Protection with Inner Guard®

Paint protection with Protect-A-Shine® et Diamond Gloss®

I will call them soon to see how they charge ?

Also, I plan on waxing myself couple times before the winter.

Thanks for the info!

[kvilkhu]

If you are interested, I can locate a professional detailer in your area. Let me know and I will see what I can do.

[SpykeYs]

Hi,

That would be great. I am located in Gatineau, QC just across of Ottawa.

I called the company and for what I mentionned above, it is 199$ for the paint protection which is 3 steps and takes about 2 hours and 89$ for the inner guard (which is like scotch guard for the cloth)

They also offer rubberrise rustproof, but I prefer oil based.

Thansk!

[Pete_Coach]

Hi all,

There aren't many company in Gatineau doing detailing from what I can see. There is one offering the following:

Inside cleaning with Inner-Clean®

Outside cleaning with Renu-A-Shine®

Cloth Protection with Inner Guard®

Paint protection with Protect-A-Shine® et Diamond Gloss®

I will call them soon to see how they charge ?

Also, I plan on waxing myself couple times before the winter.

Thanks for the info!
Why would you pay for all that lifetime shine and then do a couple times waxings before Winter? You must be putting on the stuff because you believe the advertising?
Also, if you put those products on, you cannot wax your car until you remove the products with special cleaners. Wax and the silicons used in the products are not compatible. Oh, you need to buy their special cleaners and removers to get it off.

[SpykeYs]

Well,

In that case, am I better getting it detailed once a year, or just do everything myself ?

Thanks!

[Pete_Coach]

Well,

In that case, am I better getting it detailed once a year, or just do everything myself ?

Thanks!

That is what I do. I like to wash and wax my cars, it gives me the opportunity to look and repair for scratches and rock chips. Once a year I take it to Blacktop in Orleans http://www.blacktopauto.ca/ for the full detail and sometimes in between I take it in for just a cleaning.
Oh, I never, never, let anyone do an engine cleaning or shampoo. I do this myself. I have had several experiences where someone got too ambitious with power washers and the problems don't show up till several weeks later.

[kvilkhu]

Collinite for winter...

/thread.

[mr_raider]

Hi,

That would be great. I am located in Gatineau, QC just across of Ottawa.

I called the company and for what I mentionned above, it is 199$ for the paint protection which is 3 steps and takes about 2 hours and 89$ for the inner guard (which is like scotch guard for the cloth)

They also offer rubberrise rustproof, but I prefer oil based.

Thansk!

All these expensive treatments and detailing products will do wonders for your car's shine and appearance. None of them will significantly increase the service life of your body or chassis. Retouch paint chips immediately, wash off carp with a hose often, and in winter try to blow the crud of the undercarriage so the salt doesn't stick.

The rest is just details (detailing?).

[fidog]

Collinite for winter...

/thread.
I've heard good things about Collinite and its durability. Any chance you can tell me where I can buy a bottle locally? I'm in Markham/Toronto. If you can PM me, that would be great. Thanks.

[SpykeYs]

What about Ziebart ? Anyone are aware of them ?

It's a franchise and there are many many shop across Canada and the Country.

199$ for a 3 step paint protection

399$ for 3 step paint protection + Diamond Gloss

99$ for Inner scotch (cloth)

Look here for more info: http://www.ziebarttoronto.com/exterior.htm

Seems expensive to me...

Let me know what you think or if I can get better elsewherre..

Thx!

[hOrnizuka]

^ reversible? They are wax like rust proofing, but it looks very ugly.

[tomw]

Here's a detailing thread on RFD:

http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609563