Changing front rotors on a 1998 Accord EX

[HappyGoLucky]

Hi there! Anyone know how to change the front rotors on a 1998 Accord EX (sedan)? What tools would I be needing?

Is it as simple as swinging the brake assembly out of the way and unbolting the old ones and putting the new ones in?

I understand it can be very difficult on some front-wheel drive cars requiring special tools and some major disassembly.

Thanks!

[weedb0y]

It is that simple, problem is that most of the assembly gets rusted over the time and is a @#$@#$@ to take out!

If you do have the tools, its a very easy process. I know I had bent my wrenches while trying to get my caliper off, ended up going to my mechanic!

[nsr250]

You might need an impatch wrench as well. I believe (not 100%) that there's two screws holding the rotor to the hub. These screws are usually impossible to get off. And get a C-clamp as well to push the piston back into the caliber during reinstall. Everything else is your standard wrenches, ect.

[Bazooka Joe]

You might need an impatch wrench as well. I believe (not 100%) that there's two screws holding the rotor to the hub. These screws are usually impossible to get off. And get a C-clamp as well to push the piston back into the caliber during reinstall. Everything else is your standard wrenches, ect.

You can use a pair of channel locks instead to push in the piston. It'll be either the most open position or second most open position for your standard size ones.

Getting the caliper back on is tricky, don't force it. Also put the top in first and the bottom in second.

For your questions:

Hi there! Anyone know how to change the front rotors on a 1998 Accord EX (sedan)? What tools would I be needing?

Haven't done that specific car, but I've never seen a difficult pair to replace.

Tools: Full set of wrenches and sockets, jack and jack stands, tire iron, torque wrench, chair or stool, c-clamp or channel lock (see above), some form of light (flashlight)

Is it as simple as swinging the brake assembly out of the way and unbolting the old ones and putting the new ones in?

Yup. Rust and not taking your time are your worst enemies. That and the chances of finding more items that need repair once you get in there.

Try not to let the caliper hang on the brake fluid line. Older ones can collapse under stress and you'll never know (the outside will look intact but inside it's collapsed).

Some rotors aren't even bolted on. If you can't find an axle nut or cotter pin, tap it with a rubber mallet and see if it'll come off on it's own.

I understand it can be very difficult on some front-wheel drive cars requiring special tools and some major disassembly.

Thanks!

I've never heard that before. Any examples of the more difficult ones?

[HappyGoLucky]

Thanks for all the responses!

I've never heard that before. Any examples of the more difficult ones?

I think the older generation (5th?) Accords were a little troublesome because of the hub-on-rotor configuration -- not sure.

[ES_Revenge]

Usually calipers that have a "swing-out" part, that swing out part is just to make changing pads easier. To remove the rotor you usually have to remove the whole caliper with that bracket as well, because even swinging out the pad assembly, the rest of the caliper/bracket is still in the way of getting the rotor off.

Whatever you use to compress the brake caliper, do NOT just compress the piston just like that. You should definitely open that beeder screw (and appropriately place tubing over it and direct into a container) when pushing the piston in, so you don't force all the dirt/water/crap at the caliper end back up into the master and ABS system (if equipped). That's just asking for trouble. You will have to bleed the caliper(s) afterwards but it's a heck of a lot better to bleed old fluid (along with the junk) out of the lines rather than push it up and have it get into the ABS system and the master bore...

[Bazooka Joe]

Usually calipers that have a "swing-out" part, that swing out part is just to make changing pads easier. To remove the rotor you usually have to remove the whole caliper with that bracket as well, because even swinging out the pad assembly, the rest of the caliper/bracket is still in the way of getting the rotor off.

Whatever you use to compress the brake caliper, do NOT just compress the piston just like that. You should definitely open that beeder screw (and appropriately place tubing over it and direct into a container) when pushing the piston in, so you don't force all the dirt/water/crap at the caliper end back up into the master and ABS system (if equipped). That's just asking for trouble. You will have to bleed the caliper(s) afterwards but it's a heck of a lot better to bleed old fluid (along with the junk) out of the lines rather than push it up and have it get into the ABS system and the master bore...

It's easy to see that you know what you're talking about, but don't you think that opening the bleeder screw will increase the difficulty of this project by a whole lot? It changes from a one person to a two person job, and bleeding the caliper can be a bit of a tricky process. I don't know if a first timer could get it right based on advice over the internet (and the reprocussions of not getting it right are pretty serious).

I've changed pads before without bleeding the lines and haven't had a problem yet. I know that what you're suggesting is the right way to do it, but it really does make the rotor change considerably more difficult and on a 1998 car I'm not sure that a little dirt on the piston will be a deal breaker.

[Ryus]

OP, you have never done this before, are you mechnically inclined? The reason I ask is I hope you have a sense of how much torque to apply to certain bolts and not just go crazy tightening them. If possible, try to find torque specs for the bolts. I can't remember, but I think Part Source might have a generic printout of torque specs. If they do, hope you have a torque wrench.

There are a few things I would recommend as well, apply anti-seize to the bolts when you reinstall them, use anti-squeel for the brake pads, to prevent the brake caliper from hanging from the brake lines, zip tie them to the suspension springs.

Since brakes are an essential part of the car for people's safety, just want to make sure not to treat it like a mickey mouse job, even though its a straight forward job.

[Pete_Coach]

Go to http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1664547 scroll down to the brakes section. Instructions, pictures and even some experiences.

[HappyGoLucky]

Again, thanks for all the great advice and comments! I have changed the pads before as well as bled the lines -- and it is a two-person job for sure. However, I've never changed the rotors, hence all the questions. There are 2 Phillips screws there to remove -- I just KNOW I'm gonna have a hard time removing them because I don't have an impact wrench or impact screwdriver.

Anyone know where I can get an impact screwdriver on the cheap? :o

[phildc]

Anyone know where I can get an impact screwdriver on the cheap? :o


Princess Auto. I picked one up when it was on sale for $5 a while ago but I think the regular price is $10 or so it not that expensive. If Princess Auto is too far for you, the Home Depot also carries a Husky impact drive for around $25.

If the rotors have never been removed, you may need to heat up the the screw(if you're comfortable with doing so) then give it a couple wacks with a hammer to help loosen and rust from the screw, they try the impact driver.

Good Luck:)

[HappyGoLucky]

Princess Auto. I picked one up when it was on sale for $5 a while ago but I think the regular price is $10 or so it not that expensive. If Princess Auto is too far for you, the Home Depot also carries a Husky impact drive for around $25.

If the rotors have never been removed, you may need to heat up the the screw(if you're comfortable with doing so) then give it a couple wacks with a hammer to help loosen and rust from the screw, they try the impact driver.

Good Luck:)

Actually, PrincessAuto has it on sale right now. Do those things (impact screwdrivers [as opposed to impact wrenches]) actually work?

[dgmorr]

You've got the idea. Usually a ratchet set to remove the caliper/bracket, and an impact driver for the rotor set screw.