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View Full Version : LG 52" Widescreen DLP Projection HDTV** (52DC2D) - Future Shop Exclusive


triggerhorse
Apr 5th, 2007, 03:34 PM
$999 http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/proddetail.asp?logon=&langid=EN&sku_id=0770HDS0010073029&catid=

Mint
Apr 5th, 2007, 06:46 PM
Any comments re this?

MrKat
Apr 5th, 2007, 07:00 PM
I just called LG, they said the bulb only last 3000-5000 hrs. Damn that is not good...considering they are $300-450 to replace. :twisted:

triggerhorse
Apr 6th, 2007, 12:51 AM
That is a pretty wide range of hours on the light . 3-5000hours and $300-$450 for bulb replacement is pretty far out. Where did you get the bulb cost info?

umustlearn
Apr 6th, 2007, 08:34 AM
sold out..

mcwhitelightning
Apr 9th, 2007, 04:02 PM
Did anyone pick this up? They still have some in my town. This seems like a sweet deal!! Should I buy or pass?

naruto19
Apr 9th, 2007, 04:04 PM
Did anyone pick this up? They still have some in my town. This seems like a sweet deal!! Should I buy or pass?

where is your town??

mcwhitelightning
Apr 9th, 2007, 04:11 PM
Medicine Hat AB.

Should I fork out an extra 300-500 for a sony or samsung. Are they that much better?

airodus
Apr 9th, 2007, 04:25 PM
price per inch, this is hard to beat. honestly, most DLPs have a bulb life that will last several years per bulb, i don't see this one being any different. by the time the bulb goes out, a 52" DLP will be worth about $0.05 anyways.

it's the age of disposable electronics... the best way to future proof is to buy cheap and save your money!!!

mcwhitelightning
Apr 9th, 2007, 04:49 PM
Thanx! I may bite the bullet and pick it up. I can always return it within 30 days. Has any one purchased this bad boy? Posted a review?

mcwhitelightning
Apr 9th, 2007, 07:23 PM
Went to my FS sold out. However, they ordered me one from the warehouse at that price. They should me the cost from an inventory list as 992$. So they would not budge or throw in a stand.

shawn99
Apr 9th, 2007, 08:09 PM
I just called LG, they said the bulb only last 3000-5000 hrs. Damn that is not good...considering they are $300-450 to replace. :twisted:

That is a pretty wide range of hours on the light . 3-5000hours and $300-$450 for bulb replacement is pretty far out. Where did you get the bulb cost info?


Personally, I think he just pulls numbers outa his ass@

MrKat
Apr 9th, 2007, 08:40 PM
price per inch, this is hard to beat. honestly, most DLPs have a bulb life that will last several years per bulb, i don't see this one being any different. by the time the bulb goes out, a 52" DLP will be worth about $0.05 anyways.

it's the age of disposable electronics... the best way to future proof is to buy cheap and save your money!!!

Depends how often you use it. For instance take a Samsung 06 model, that lasts 6000-8000hrs, run it at the 12hrs per day and it will last you roughly a year and a half at the least. The only way one bulb will last you 3 or 4 years is if you only plan on using it 3 or 4 hours a day.

It may be a low cost now, but if you plan on running it like a tank every day, you will be going through bulbs much quicker than you will expect.

ES_Revenge
Apr 9th, 2007, 09:51 PM
1280x720 resolution says it all--not really too great. But it's 52" and only $1000, so you can't expect anything more than that. If you're just after a big TV and don't care for better quality (which will typically cost you 2x the price for a similar screen size) then it might be okay. Personally I've never been impressed with LG's projection TV offerings though.

InternalStorm1
Apr 9th, 2007, 10:06 PM
1280x720 resolution says it all--not really too great. But it's 52" and only $1000, so you can't expect anything more than that. If you're just after a big TV and don't care for better quality (which will typically cost you 2x the price for a similar screen size) then it might be okay. Personally I've never been impressed with LG's projection TV offerings though.

You aren't gonna notice a big difference with 1080p or 720p on a set that is at this size. It shouldn't really influence your purchase, if you are looking for a good deal.

But I can say, STAY AWAY FROM ANY TV WITH A BULB! The Toshiba's have had a terrible time and burn out anywhere from 3 months to a year. I wouldn't risk it, and reading one of the reviews on the FS site, it seems someone else had the same problem. Get something with LED backlighting or get a plasma/LCD because the hassle and cost to replace a bulb isn't worth it. Even if it lasts a year, then instead of $999 it will be more like a $1300 TV, and add $300 each year and you could have purchased something better. There is a reason the DLP projections with the bulb are so low in price now.

airodus
Apr 10th, 2007, 02:24 AM
Depends how often you use it. For instance take a Samsung 06 model, that lasts 6000-8000hrs, run it at the 12hrs per day and it will last you roughly a year and a half at the least. The only way one bulb will last you 3 or 4 years is if you only plan on using it 3 or 4 hours a day.

It may be a low cost now, but if you plan on running it like a tank every day, you will be going through bulbs much quicker than you will expect.

i suppose that is true, but who watches 12 hours of tv a day? 3 or 4 hours seems more reasonable for the average person.

Moosebox
Apr 10th, 2007, 09:44 AM
Yea, 12 hours a day? Someone needs to go outside for a bit :P

I think 5 hours would be a high average so lets go with that. My Samsung DLP bulb has a rating of 6000-8000 hours. (*!*Don't run bulbs on dynamic mode, that cuts the life in half*!*). So a bulb will last between 3.3 years and 4.4 years. If I just purchased my TV Jan 2007. I will have to change my bulb in about 4 years, so 2011. That first change will last me another 4 years till 2015.

So on one bulb change at a cost of $200(3rd party source) to $400(manufacturer), my Samsung DLP will last 8 years. Probably when I would purchase a new TV anyway. If you are going to go DLP, go with a Samsung, they tend to get the best reviews and bulb ratings. Save $10 a month and you'll be able to purchase your one and only bulb replacement. Or get a extended warranty that covers the bulb for a bit.

Metablob
Apr 10th, 2007, 10:02 AM
Being a front projector owner, bulb life is a hotly debated topic in the AVS forums. An engineer from Phillips I believe passed along some hints on maximizing bulb life.

a) everytime the bulb is struck (turned on) an hour of life is used. It is better to leave the TV on than to turn it off for an hour then turn it back on.

b) life expectancy tests are based on 8 hr usage windows. If you viewing window is shorter, you will not get maximum life.

c) DO NOT turn on the set when the bulb is hot. Re-striking the bulb when it is hot will take significant chunks out of your bulb's life.

d) Dynamic (high brightness mode) will reduce bulb life from 20-50% depending on how close to the maximum rating the bulb is pushed

e) Expect a reduction in brightness at the half-life point. Re-adjusting the set should be able to compensate.

Enjoy

sw1ft
Apr 10th, 2007, 01:49 PM
Being a front projector owner, bulb life is a hotly debated topic in the AVS forums. An engineer from Phillips I believe passed along some hints on maximizing bulb life.

a) everytime the bulb is struck (turned on) an hour of life is used. It is better to leave the TV on than to turn it off for an hour then turn it back on.

b) life expectancy tests are based on 8 hr usage windows. If you viewing window is shorter, you will not get maximum life.

c) DO NOT turn on the set when the bulb is hot. Re-striking the bulb when it is hot will take significant chunks out of your bulb's life.

d) Dynamic (high brightness mode) will reduce bulb life from 20-50% depending on how close to the maximum rating the bulb is pushed

e) Expect a reduction in brightness at the half-life point. Re-adjusting the set should be able to compensate.

Enjoy
Wow thanks. I learned something new today.

Metablob
Apr 10th, 2007, 02:58 PM
WOW thank... GOD i did not buy a DLP. LOL j/k

The recommendations apply to both DLP and LCD rear projection sets.

Chrispy
Apr 10th, 2007, 03:15 PM
I had this TV for all of about 2 days earlier in the year I think they had this one on sale for Boxing Day. It was terrible...picture was horrible, and yeah, the bulb life really didn't put my mind at comfort every time I turned it on....

Just my two cents, although it doesn't appear to be on their site anymore.

mcwhitelightning
Apr 10th, 2007, 04:04 PM
Wow thanks for all the replies and solid info! I did bite the bullet and purchased the set. I pick it up Thursday or Friday. I'll post a review on the results. If it ends up being junk I'll take back in a heartbeat.

ES_Revenge
Apr 11th, 2007, 01:50 PM
You aren't gonna notice a big difference with 1080p or 720p on a set that is at this size.
I disagree. I think most people that have gone shopping for a set would disagree as well. I mean what size do you think you need to notice the difference? 60"? 70"? Larger? 70" sets aren't that big of sellers I don't think and at the same time there are many sets in the 50" range that are indeed full HD (1080p) capable. These sets don't sell solely because of the numbers. I'm sure some do but most people buying big screen sets go into stores with many models and do visual comparisons. (Not that in-store visual comparisons tell the whole story about a TV but still there is a visual difference in a set with better resolution in most cases.)

You can see a good difference in a 720p and 1080p set in this size range, particularly if you have a high-def input to match IMO.

It shouldn't really influence your purchase, if you are looking for a good deal.
That's pretty much what I was saying as well. But sometimes cheaping something out to get a "good deal" is not really a "good deal". Already one comment on this thread has condemmned this model, and out of curiousity I searched for some reviews on it and there seems to be more than one person saying the same thing. Again, LG projection sets have never been overly impressive.

But I can say, STAY AWAY FROM ANY TV WITH A BULB! The Toshiba's have had a terrible time and burn out anywhere from 3 months to a year.
That's one suggestion, yes, but I can't say that it should be a hard and fast rule. There are quite a few ways of looking at it. And, every type of set whether it be a flat panel or a UHP bulb projector will have it's problems/disadvantages. There is no perfect TV.

Reliability-wise the CRT was probably the best of them but then we never saw huge CRTs with high resolutions because it just isn't possible with CRT technology (anything 40" or larger has serious landing problems as the earth's magnetic field becomes an increasing problem for it). Gone are the days of buying your CRT TV and having it last for decades with no problems--it's a price to pay for much bigger screens, higher res/better picture quality, and lower prices.

Also your example of the Toshiba set(s) burning bulbs in 3 months is perhaps a more isolated problem to certain model(s) rather than a catch-all for all bulb-driven projectors. Certainly bulbs can burn out at anytime (bulb life is an estimate never a guarantee) but just one of the disadvantages of the type of set. You might pay 1.5-2x the money for a flat panel of the same res/size but then how many bulbs might you buy for the difference in price? And, again, it's not like flat panels don't have their own problems. LED-driven projection is another way to go but there's no way of telling that there aren't going to be any issues there either.

if it lasts a year, then instead of $999 it will be more like a $1300 TV, and add $300 each year and you could have purchased something better.
First off you're ignoring the possibility that bulbs could last more than a year. Second of all, you're also missing something else. $300 as occasional set maintenance, is different than having to fork out $1000 or more additional, all at once, at the time of purchase. For some people paying this money later, in lesser amounts and with the possibility the bulbs may last for a while (meaning less money on bulbs and less money overall) then that could be a better idea.

There is a reason the DLP projections with the bulb are so low in price now.
LOL. Yeah the reason is technology is progressing and things such as this naturally get cheaper over time. :rolleyes: I mean if you're implying that they are "so low in price now" because bulbs eventually expire, then that's pure nonsense. Bulbs burning out is not a problem (unless they burn extremely quickly as in the case of the Toshibas you mentioned), rather it is just something that occurs inherent in the design of the TV/bulb.

If you use the logic that projection sets get cheaper as time goes on because there's some sort of "problem" with them, then why have LCD panels dropped through the floor in price over the years? Is it because there's a "problem" with those as well? Why is last year's top-of-the-line videocard cheaper now than it was last year? Is it because there was a problem with it? Of course not! Be realistic. Technology generally gets cheaper and better with time, and that's why "LCD projections are so low in price now", not because of some catastrophic unforseen problem with them :rolleyes:

ES_Revenge
Apr 11th, 2007, 02:05 PM
Being a front projector owner, bulb life is a hotly debated topic in the AVS forums. An engineer from Phillips I believe passed along some hints on maximizing bulb life.
Good tips! :) However I have a few comments/questions for you...

b) life expectancy tests are based on 8 hr usage windows. If you viewing window is shorter, you will not get maximum life.
Even at that, you're never guaranteed maximum life no matter how you use it. Bulb can blow at any time. Perhaps it might be due to some small manufacturing defect or imperfection if it blows significantly before rated hours but there's never really a way to prove that (apart from having 1000s of people have the exact same problem). So that's just a bit of the gamble with bulb life.

c) DO NOT turn on the set when the bulb is hot. Re-striking the bulb when it is hot will take significant chunks out of your bulb's life.
Though this is ideal, unfortunately it is impractical/unrealistic for the general public I think. People should follow these rules but sometimes it isn't that easy or that well understood by consumers.

d) Dynamic (high brightness mode) will reduce bulb life from 20-50% depending on how close to the maximum rating the bulb is pushed
There's an interesting point. Surely higher bulb output will use the bulb up more quickly but shouldn't the opposite be true as well? Some sets have a "power saving" mode which reduces the bulb power (and conserves electricity). If this is engaged, shouldn't the bulb then last longer, typically?

Also some brightness settings have nothing to do with the bulb (or at least that's what I thought?). Don't [at least some] brightness-affecting settings have to do with iris openings rather than actual bulb output? I thought the bulb was just on (or on in powersaving) and then other settings were just engine- and iris- based, and didn't change what the bulb was doing. I certainly could be wrong there though.

e) Expect a reduction in brightness at the half-life point. Re-adjusting the set should be able to compensate.
Yeah this certainly isn't great either. But from the above some people might get the impression that the bulb just gets dimmer around half the life, just like that. Rather (to clarify) the bulb is getting dimmer all the time, but around half it's life it may become apparent that it is dimmer. On the other hand due to gradual dimming it may not be as apparent unless you were comparing directly to a set with low hours on the bulb at similar settings.

As a final question, I wonder if bulb coolling will increase bulb life? Certainly the fan is always on in any given set (and cools for a short time after set-off) but some sets have a high-altitude cooling option which runs the fan at full/high speed at all times and increases the after-off cooling cycle as well. Though this option creates more noise, I wonder if this would increase bulb life to any degree, if it were engaged (in normal altitude settings I mean)?

InternalStorm1
Apr 12th, 2007, 12:13 AM
I disagree. I think most people that have gone shopping for a set would disagree as well. I mean what size do you think you need to notice the difference? 60"? 70"? Larger? 70" sets aren't that big of sellers I don't think and at the same time there are many sets in the 50" range that are indeed full HD (1080p) capable. These sets don't sell solely because of the numbers. I'm sure some do but most people buying big screen sets go into stores with many models and do visual comparisons. (Not that in-store visual comparisons tell the whole story about a TV but still there is a visual difference in a set with better resolution in most cases.)

You can see a good difference in a 720p and 1080p set in this size range, particularly if you have a high-def input to match IMO.


That's pretty much what I was saying as well. But sometimes cheaping something out to get a "good deal" is not really a "good deal". Already one comment on this thread has condemmned this model, and out of curiousity I searched for some reviews on it and there seems to be more than one person saying the same thing. Again, LG projection sets have never been overly impressive.


That's one suggestion, yes, but I can't say that it should be a hard and fast rule. There are quite a few ways of looking at it. And, every type of set whether it be a flat panel or a UHP bulb projector will have it's problems/disadvantages. There is no perfect TV.

Reliability-wise the CRT was probably the best of them but then we never saw huge CRTs with high resolutions because it just isn't possible with CRT technology (anything 40" or larger has serious landing problems as the earth's magnetic field becomes an increasing problem for it). Gone are the days of buying your CRT TV and having it last for decades with no problems--it's a price to pay for much bigger screens, higher res/better picture quality, and lower prices.

Also your example of the Toshiba set(s) burning bulbs in 3 months is perhaps a more isolated problem to certain model(s) rather than a catch-all for all bulb-driven projectors. Certainly bulbs can burn out at anytime (bulb life is an estimate never a guarantee) but just one of the disadvantages of the type of set. You might pay 1.5-2x the money for a flat panel of the same res/size but then how many bulbs might you buy for the difference in price? And, again, it's not like flat panels don't have their own problems. LED-driven projection is another way to go but there's no way of telling that there aren't going to be any issues there either.


First off you're ignoring the possibility that bulbs could last more than a year. Second of all, you're also missing something else. $300 as occasional set maintenance, is different than having to fork out $1000 or more additional, all at once, at the time of purchase. For some people paying this money later, in lesser amounts and with the possibility the bulbs may last for a while (meaning less money on bulbs and less money overall) then that could be a better idea.


LOL. Yeah the reason is technology is progressing and things such as this naturally get cheaper over time. :rolleyes: I mean if you're implying that they are "so low in price now" because bulbs eventually expire, then that's pure nonsense. Bulbs burning out is not a problem (unless they burn extremely quickly as in the case of the Toshibas you mentioned), rather it is just something that occurs inherent in the design of the TV/bulb.

If you use the logic that projection sets get cheaper as time goes on because there's some sort of "problem" with them, then why have LCD panels dropped through the floor in price over the years? Is it because there's a "problem" with those as well? Why is last year's top-of-the-line videocard cheaper now than it was last year? Is it because there was a problem with it? Of course not! Be realistic. Technology generally gets cheaper and better with time, and that's why "LCD projections are so low in price now", not because of some catastrophic unforseen problem with them :rolleyes:

I have no idea why you spent so much of your time analysing my post to the little last detail. I'm just giving my opinion based on personal experience with my current DLP, as well as from the experience of others. Of course not everything I say will be correct for every set, you would be foolish to think so.

Try not to pick at every little thing somebody says, there are always exceptions and different scenarios, I am just setting my opinion out there.

ES_Revenge
Apr 12th, 2007, 12:17 AM
I have no idea why you spent so much of your time analysing my post to the little last detail.

...

Try not to pick at every little thing somebody says, there are always exceptions and different scenarios, I am just setting my opinion out there.
I think you answered your own question right there, lol. I did it simply because you made pretty extreme statments at first (condemning all bulb-based projectors and equating price drops to design flaws for example); and, like most extreme statements of this sort they aren't entirely (or even really) true.

As for not picking at what people say... Point taken ;)

mcwhitelightning
Apr 12th, 2007, 06:42 PM
So far so good. Great colour and contrast. No rinabows for myself. Easily worth a thousand bucks. That being said it's only 2 days old. Looks as good or better than the Toshiba 50hm66.