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deep
Sep 10th, 2006, 10:11 PM
Just got a quote for spark plugs and cables from a local car guy, as part of a pre-winter tune-up. Both are in dire need of replacing. $60.00 for the plugs, $65.00 for the wires, plus some labour.....should I do this myself? Is it as easy as it appears? I think I've seen plugs for much less....how much should I expect to pay for cables?

Also, anything I should look for in plugs for a Taurus that's pushing 10 years? I don't think I need Iridium, maybe not even platinum....what is recommended for older cars?

B0000rt
Sep 10th, 2006, 10:15 PM
DIY, they're very easy to do, you just need the proper spark plug socket ($5-10 or if you haev a socket set, there should be one in there already) and maybe some thread grease for the spark plugs (like $2-3).

Go with whatever the OE spec is. My '94 Grand Am uses Plat. plugs for OE.

bembol
Sep 10th, 2006, 10:18 PM
Iridiums, no...Platinums, maybe...???

DIY is easy...Canadian Tire has a Tune Up (Spark Plug) Kit, $5.99...you also need a Torque Wrench (3/4")

btw, make sure the Engine is Cold...!!!

mau108
Sep 10th, 2006, 10:26 PM
Remember to apply some anti seize or new oil around the threads of the plugs and I would go with copper if you feel comfortable doing the change every 20k.

If not platinum will do.

While your doing this do the rotor and cap (not sure if the taurus uses this but on hondas its a good idea)

B0000rt
Sep 10th, 2006, 10:29 PM
btw, make sure the Engine is Cold...!!!
Changing the back plugs on a transversly mounted V-engine when the exhaust manifolds are hot == bad idea :D

nx2k
Sep 10th, 2006, 11:45 PM
that's cheap for wires, not for plugs tho.
if you have a v6 or v8, take it in, you'll be glad u did

ES_Revenge
Sep 10th, 2006, 11:49 PM
Also, anything I should look for in plugs for a Taurus that's pushing 10 years? I don't think I need Iridium, maybe not even platinum....what is recommended for older cars?
Keep in mind the main advantage of platinum and iridium plugs are longer lifespan, not "better performance" as the manufacturers like to claim. So if you want to change the plugs again in 30,000-60,000km then don't bother with platinum plugs. If, however, you'd prefer to have the plugs last 100,000km or more then go with platinum. Standard platinum plugs aren't much more expensive than normal (usually copper) plugs, and they last longer...

deep
Sep 10th, 2006, 11:54 PM
Yeah, I don't expect to have the car for more than another 40K, but I would like it to run properly through the winter. So I would probably get copper plugs...where should I buy the wires?

It's a V6...nx2K is saying I should just let them do it...what's the consensus?

Thanks for your input people!

ViperZ
Sep 10th, 2006, 11:58 PM
Yeah, I don't expect to have the car for more than another 40K, but I would like it to run properly through the winter. So I would probably get copper plugs...where should I buy the wires?

It's a V6...nx2K is saying I should just let them do it...what's the consensus?

Thanks for your input people!

That price is fine if the spark plugs are good brand, not cheap ones. How much for the labour though?

russfest
Sep 11th, 2006, 01:54 AM
Do it yourself. Its pretty easy. Really.

Go to Napa or a lordco if its near you. get the NGK basic ones, no need for anything special. The split fire and other special ones only make a bigger difference on 4 cylinders. Buy a ukranian tire multi piece set and it will come with all the tools you need.

Are you sure you need cables? Im assuming you have coil packs. Find out what bosch ones are for your car.

You dont need a torque wrench for your plugs. Just screw them in with your 3/8 socket wrench until it gets snug, then turn it a bit more. DONT reef on them. If its the type I think it is, its an aluminum head and you will cost yourself lots if you strip it. If you look at them before you put them it theres a crush ring on them. Its not important to 'index' them so the opening of the plug faces your intake valve ports as its not a race car looking for combustion completion.

EDIT: check that the spark plug gaps are right on the ones you buy. sometimes they arent that good. Also, sometimes you dont need to replace the old plugs, most of the time they dont wear out.. the gap increases so you can regap them if you are a cheapskate. Buy a cheap round sparkplug gapping tool.. bout 2 bucks.

Good luck. If you want a good 'tune-up'. Take off your intake housing, right before it goes into your butterfly in the intake plenum (should be a rubber hose bout 5 inches long with the wire ring holders), and spray part of a can of intake cleaner (bout 6 bucks from a decent parts store if not cheaper) make sure you open and close the butterfly as you do it. This will clean out the carbon/ crap buildup and should help. If you know what it is, remove the EGR solenoid as well and do the same around there. Be careful of the paper gasket for it. If you do destroy it, dont buy a new one, use a cereal box to make a new one and use grease on it.

Hope this kinda makes some sence.
Russ

Cleveland612
Sep 11th, 2006, 10:08 AM
As a fellow Taurus owner (99 SE), I strongly recommend that you go with the actual Ford Motorcraft plugs that are recommended for your car. The 3.0L Taurus engines (Vulcan and Duratec) are both sensitive to non-OEM plugs.

Back in February, I picked up a set of 6 plugs from a local Ford Dealer for a little over $40. I installed them myself in an hour. The installation was fairly simple since there is a lots of room to work under the hood. Be sure to check the electrode gap and adjust as necessary.
I did notice a performance improvement afterwards when compared to the previous brand.
I can't comment on the type of wires since I didn't replace mine. However, the installation looks like it would be straight forward.
These cars are fairly easy to work on. I would expect that you will save at least $125 by doing both the plugs and wires yourself.

You may want to check out the Taurus Car Cub website (taurusclub.XXX). There is lots of useful information and many good maintenance tips specific to bulls.

Bullseye
Sep 11th, 2006, 08:59 PM
Deep, I've read a lot of your posts, and recall you've done a lot of stuff around the house, so I assume you're fairly handy...so do it yourself! Probably one of the easiest jobs on a vehicle, if you have some decent tools. I agree about using Ford plugs, though, just order them at any dealership.

And hey, I'm like ten minutes away from you, if you get stuck, send me a PM, I'll happily give you a hand. I have an old Mustang I'm always tinkering with, so I have all the proper stuff, gappers, bendy ratchets, etc.

B0000rt
Sep 12th, 2006, 12:35 AM
You made me check my maintence manual to see the last time I changed my plugs, it was Sept/03 on AC Delco Plat. at 322,000kms. It's 3 years later and I'm at 379,000 kms :-0 They're supposed to be replaced every 160,000kms but lol, yeah right, I guess I should check them.

If they look fine, I'll change em after my Auto-RX cleaning cycles.

deep
Sep 12th, 2006, 01:40 AM
Thanks for the advice, and the offer to help, Bullseye! You may just hear from me yet :)

I guess I'm going to try this myself, and I'll check out the cables as well but may not toss them just yet. Every day I get out of this car without spending a dollar is like a gift from Cheapor, the patron deity of RFD.

B0000rt
Sep 12th, 2006, 01:28 PM
Be careful of the paper gasket for it. If you do destroy it, dont buy a new one, use a cereal box to make a new one and use grease on it.
Lol!

How's that for saving $2 and a trip to the parts shop!

russfest
Sep 13th, 2006, 01:20 AM
As a fellow Taurus owner (99 SE), I strongly recommend that you go with the actual Ford Motorcraft plugs that are recommended for your car. The 3.0L Taurus engines (Vulcan and Duratec) are both sensitive to non-OEM plugs.

Back in February, I picked up a set of 6 plugs from a local Ford Dealer for a little over $40. I installed them myself in an hour. The installation was fairly simple since there is a lots of room to work under the hood. Be sure to check the electrode gap and adjust as necessary.
I did notice a performance improvement afterwards when compared to the previous brand.
I can't comment on the type of wires since I didn't replace mine. However, the installation looks like it would be straight forward.
These cars are fairly easy to work on. I would expect that you will save at least $125 by doing both the plugs and wires yourself.

You may want to check out the Taurus Car Cub website (taurusclub.XXX). There is lots of useful information and many good maintenance tips specific to bulls.


I agree with you, good advice. Check out what other owners say and do for maintenance, I was being general not being that familiar with Taurus's

russfest
Sep 13th, 2006, 01:38 AM
Lol!

How's that for saving $2 and a trip to the parts shop!

Im a bit lazy when Im out back tinkering and do something like this.. lol. Just suggesting what I would do. That being said I started up an engine a few days ago I had rebuild and transplanted into my offroading/camping truck. Because its not the stock engine in there its a TIGHT fit, like one inch to the firewall. On the back of the block facing the firewall there is a cover where some exhaust gas recircs for emissions purposes. The second time I fired it checking that all the systems work, the paper gasket blew out. This is an OEM complete rebuild kit that I spent the extra money on not wanting any problems with leaks, which is why I rebuilt the complete engine. LOL. I had to drain, disconnect everything, and pull the engine partway out to replace the gasket.. which I replaced with a high quality felpro multilayer metal one. Murphys law I suppose.

Whats RX-cycle cleaner you were refering to earlier?

B0000rt
Sep 13th, 2006, 08:25 AM
Whats RX-cycle cleaner you were refering to earlier?

http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

russfest
Sep 13th, 2006, 07:03 PM
Thats interesting, does it actually work? How long have you been using it? Can you use it in conjunction with anything else? It sounds good.

I use this in my engine:
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=25&catid=2&loc=show
I started using it after I talked to a few GM stealership mechanics and found out that they use it in rebuilt and other problem transmissions.

I also use it in my old nissan's transmission as it howls, or used to. It shifts easier as well now.