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Hammer Drill Kit $50, Intelligent Battery Charger + Booster Pack $65 @ CanadianTire.ca

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Hammer Drill Kit $50, Intelligent Battery Charger + Booster Pack $65 @ CanadianTire.ca

From their current flyer, there are CanadianTire.ca deals on power tools and automotive accessories available until February 16:
  • Mastercraft 100-Piece Hammer Drill Kit (ID 54-2951-6): $49.99, 50% off
  • Jobmate 4½-in. Angle Grinder (ID 54-7234-4): $19.99, 43% off
  • Counteract Electronic Rust Protection System (ID 47-7905-6): $199.99 and up
  • 2-in-1 Intelligent Battery Charger & Booster Pack (ID 11-1501-6): $64.99, 50% off
  • Mastercraft 7¼-in. Mitre Saw with Laser (ID 55-6857-6): $69.99, 42% off
You can also receive free shipping with coupon code advancegreen on orders of $49 or more.

Get this deal

Source:

Source: Rooster via Forums

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  • AVATAR
    • majesus
    • The idea (in theory) works. They use this technology on marine vessels as well.
      I've been thinking for years why this isn't popular on cars?

      Similar units sell at roughly the same price on ebay:
      LIST

      The unit is probably a good investment for your car, if your car is worth something.

      However since CT is starting to sell them, looks like the product is starting to catching on. At $199.99, the price will probably come down if this idea becomes popular.


      Here is a link for another company that sells them as well.
  • AVATAR
    • slomo
    • Does this product prevent rust from forming? Also, if the car is rusting already, does this prevent the rust from spreading further? Anybody knows of reviews in the internet?
  • AVATAR
    • clergykid
    • I first heard of this stuff at a Honda dealership, so then I went to do some searching on Internet last year and didn't find a clear cut answer as to whether this stuff really works on cars. Some products were even sued as scams in the US.

      I think supposedly these electronic rust protection systems a) prevents rust and b) controls the spread of rust. How it works is that it transfers charge away for your car to some sacrifical anode. Basically, some piece of metal that will "absorb" all the rust.

      The idea itself does work, and as stated in the previous post, is used in ships and even off shore oil rigs. However, the argument has always been that you need some way to transfer charge away from the body to the sacrificial metal. For ships and off shore rigs water transfers charge. But you car doesn't sit in water, so charge transfer is not as effective.

      Anyways, it'd be great if someone could shed more light on this, or if someone actually has something similar installed already.
  • AVATAR
    • careh
    • There is an article on page F2 by Jim Kerr in todays Winnipeg Free Press on this very subject. He says better to save the $$$ and keep the car clean. I know with mine I use Rust Check a spray-on misting oil applied annually & have had no major rust issues even though I park in an insulated garage

      Here is part of the article:

      To create an electrical current, there must be a complete electrical circuit. In boats, the water forms one part of the circuit. In buildings, the ground forms one part of the circuit. Cars however, are not immersed in water or buried in the ground. If there was a good return path through water or dirt, this concept might work, but it doesn't have one. Another problem is that to create a charge over the complete vehicle body, the electronic rust prevention systems would have to use enough electricity from the vehicle's battery that it would keep draining the battery so your vehicle wouldn't start.

      Would I recommend electronic rust prevention? No. I would save my money and apply it to keeping the vehicle clean. Rust occurs mostly where dirt and debris collect in recesses in the vehicle body. This area dries out slowly, so rust has a prime environment to occur. Wash under the vehicle thoroughly, inside front fenders and along trim to flush dirt out of corners. A clean vehicle dries quicker and dry vehicles rust very slowly.

      Jim Kerr is an experienced mechanic, instructor of automotive technology and member of the Automobile Journalists' Association of Canada. You can e-mail questions to Jim at the address below.



      kerr.jim@sasktel.net
  • AVATAR
    • roachkillah
    • well i've been using this on my car for the past 3yrs.. i bought it from the manuf.
      it was the same price $200 CND shipped to me
      to be honest, couldn't tell you if it works or not, the car had a tiny bit or rust in the trunk lid, when i installed it, and the tiny bit of rust still the same.. it hasn't spread or anything.
      i've goten stone chips that chipped the paint all the way down to bare metal, and no rust formed.
      having said all of that, my car is always washed, and i wax it right b4 winter hits.
  • AVATAR
    • Newfie
    • I researched this stuff heavily before I bought a new car in 2003. Yes it works perfectly on ships, but the transfer to autos is a bit harder.

      From memory, I can say that unless you can guarantee that 100% of the car's metal is part of the circuit, then it won't work. Think of your car's metal body as a wire in the circuit, if there's a break in the wire, then the circuit is broken. Over time as your car ages, etc., body parts will shift and you may lose the connection that's needed to maintain the circuit. (Try tracing the break in a circuit if it's your car's body ... ;-)

      Ships are designed so that the metal to metal contact is maintained throughout the structure if it's going to be a part of the electronic rust-proofing system.

      As well, you may not be able to submerse your car in water to complete the circuit (also don't forget that it's salt water those ships travel through, better conductor than fresh water) so to really make it work, you'd have to run a wire from one place in the car's metal body back to the batter or whatever device is used.

      A lot of work, but like some other poster said, keep your car clean. And in the winter, (if you're just concerned about rust and not having a shiny car) only wash your car when the temp is above freezing. Salt only contributes to rust when it can be dissolved in water.

      I'm not associated in any way with Krown rustproofing, but I ended up choosing them to rustproof my two cars and haven't had a problem. I found their method to be the best, but that's my opinion.

      Good luck in your quest to keep your car rustproof!
      Craig
  • AVATAR
    • Kwirky
    • This is complete pseudoscience, save your money!
  • AVATAR
    • Rooster
    • Thanks everyone for the advice. Again, RFD do save money (in a way)
  • AVATAR
    • xaveryptak
    • CT offers 5 yr guarantee against rust through (holes) if they do the install. My car is 6 yr old, just starting to show some rust in one or two places (visible to me). If I can keep it it from rusting or have a part replaced under guarantee for another 5 yrs it may be worthwhile. Now, I am not sure what are exact guarantee stipulations, what's hidden in the small print.
  • AVATAR
    • dreamlayers
    • CounterAct has a website which includes a section which explains how it works. They claim that it uses capacitive coupling to induce a negative charge to the entire car body, and that it uses less power from the battery than a digital clock. They also claim they have patents, which should explain the process further, but I haven't been able to find any yet.
  • AVATAR
  • AVATAR
    • Ziggy007
    • Just to throw in my two cents, I can't comment on this unit, or electronic rust-proof as a whole, but just my one experience.

      When I purchased my Hyundai Sonata, there were a couple choices for rustproofing, and the highest level of rustproof was an electronic method that attached near the battery.

      I think they wanted about $700 for the unit. Does it work? I have no idea. All I do know is they said that if I had that I am covered by an unconditional lifetime rust policy on the car.

      I refused. Whether they were banking on the fact it would never rust in my lifetime, or the fact it worked, I have no idea...
  • AVATAR
    • squall458
    • My friend's Toyota Camry 2007 has this in it, but at an extra cost I believe. The dealer something about the ions going all over the car and removing rust. That was his explanation, not saying that's the science behind it. It sounded cool!
  • AVATAR
    • madman604
    • i was under the impression rust (oxidation) is caused by oxygen, so unless you car is in an oxygen/water free atmsophere, its gonna rust. just a question of how long.

      IMO keep it clean, undercoated and waxed.
  • AVATAR
  • AVATAR
    • maniacshopper
    • [I]t works for ships, because they are tightly sealed, so the conductivity is there. Where as a car isn't always so.
      If you were concerned about cars rusting, get a plastic car like the saturns.
      I'm not worried about rust.
      Better question is do you intend to drive the same car for the next 10-15 years.
      If its a brand new car, the body should last you min. 10-15 yrs unless you were in an accident then all bets are off.

      Besides, most people start changing for new ones after 7-8 yrs anyway.
      Who cares.
      Unless you are driving a supercar.

      I say avoid the product and save yourself the money.
  • AVATAR
    • hamhead
    • I KNOW!!! make a complete circuit in ur car by soldering wires here and there, inside the body and in the engine bay, and that will complete the circuit. u can then make a wire that can touch the ground when you are parked so it has a ground. there, problem fixed!
  • AVATAR
    • polka
    • I KNOW!!! make a complete circuit in ur car by soldering wires here and there, inside the body and in the engine bay, and that will complete the circuit. u can then make a wire that can touch the ground when you are parked so it has a ground. there, problem fixed!

      Car body is already grounded no ?
  • AVATAR
    • Betard
    • They tested a product like this on Mythbusters and they said it doesnt work. take that for what you wish...

      My Wife's Grand-Father swears by this product (or one like it)

      so who knows...
  • AVATAR
    • rabblerouser
    • I wonder if you could just bolt sacrificial metal to the inside of your fenders and other trouble areas
  • AVATAR
    • aeonrush
    • Car body is already grounded no ?
      No, it's well insulated from the ground due to the rubber in your tires.
  • AVATAR
    • Kwirky
    • I wonder if you could just bolt sacrificial metal to the inside of your fenders and other trouble areas
      Yes, it would be far more effective than this CounterAct thing.
  • AVATAR
    • givinr
    • THIS IS A SCAM. PERIOD. The name of this thing has changed numerous times over the years because of all of the law suits involved with these things. I worked for Ziebart for about 5 years and I rememeber the controversy about these things. At a trade show I was at one of the reps from one of the companies selling this thing likened it to a "magic money box". All he could talk about was how profitable this piece of junk was, and how statistically it could be an empty box with 2 wires since the average owner never keeps their car long enough to see rust through on their car and make a claim. And for the odd few that do rust out... well the huge profit in these things off set the risk. Essentially you are buying an insurance policy that requires the car to have a visible hole in it before they repair it (read the fine print). Trust me, as someone that was on the inside of the rust proofing business... it is definitely foofy pseudo science. The only real way to rust protect a car is via crown/rust check/Ziebart, and even at that, make sure you check to see the chemicals have bene properly applied because it is habit of alot of the shops to spray just the exterior seams and make a bit of "purposeful" mess around the plugs to make it look as if they actually did an application. Buyer beware on this this one.
  • AVATAR
    • majesus
    • Car body is already grounded no ?
      When you say your body is "grounded," in this sense you are actually saying, it is the electric reference point (also called the common point) of your car's electrical system.

      Voltages are referenced measurements, same with speed, angles, distances, etc... For a car, the body isn't really grounded... The terminology "grounded" came in because often in electrical systems the common point is actually physically connected to the earth's ground. Hence grounded...

      People (including I) just say grounded (but really we are referring to the voltage's reference point.) A car it isn't really grounded. Just the body is electrically connected to the negative part of the battery which is also the reference point for all the car's voltage(s).
  • AVATAR
    • cwb27
    • i was under the impression rust (oxidation) is caused by oxygen, so unless you car is in an oxygen/water free atmsophere, its gonna rust. just a question of how long.

      IMO keep it clean, undercoated and waxed.
      You would think so... But when using a sacrifial anode, meaning a metal that more freely gives up its electrons than the other metal around it, the sacrificial anode 'protects' the other metal by rusting away first. Once your sacrificial anode is fully corroded the connected metal (the metal you're 'protecting') is not longer protected and then will begin to corrode.

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